April

Tuesday 1. Apl. –
This forenoon we spent most agreeably at the "Pitti Palace", (which is the name given to the Principal Residence of the Grand Duke of Tuscany) in viewing the grand and interesting Collection of Pictures in the several beautiful and magnificent Apartments of that Palace. – In the Evening, after Mrs. M. had dined, we took an airing in our own Carriage, in those beautiful Promenades called the "Cascine".

I dined today with Lord Burghersh the British Minister, and spent a very pleasant Evening with a large and agreeable Company of English Ladies & Gentlemen.

Wednesday 2. Apl. –
I visited the Gallery of Statues and Pictures (- with Lachlan and Mr. Meiklejohn -), and afterwards took a walk thro' the Town. –

We took an early Dinner, and in the Evening, we all took a Drive in the Carriage to the Cascine, where we met a great deal of fashionable Company and very splendid Equipages. This is a most interesting beautiful Drive.

Thursday 3. April –
I visited the Museum, along with Capt. Druitt, who was so good as to offer to be our Guide; – where we saw a very fine large and rare Collection of Natural History.

Mrs. Macquarie accompanied us afterwards, to the Gallery of Statues and Paintings, where we remained upwards of two Hours, admiring those elegant and grand works of Art; the celebrated Venus de Medicis attracting most attention. – Capt. Druitt dined with us, and in the Evening we took a Drive into the country to see the Grand Duke's Palace of "Poggi Imperiale" and fine Gardens, with which we were very much gratified. –

Friday 4. April ! –
I went to see the Church of St. Croce, containing the Tombs of several celebrated Painters Sculptors & Poets; amongst whom are those of Michael Angelo, Galileo, Alfiori, and Machiavelli. –

–- I called again on Lord Burghersh to take Leave, and took Lachlan with me to be presented to his Lordship. –

I called also on my Bankers to receive money for my Journey to Rome, intending to leave Florence tomorrow. –

Saturday 5. Apl. 1823.
Set out from Florence at 8. A.M. Refresh at Pian de la Fonte, and Sleep at Lavana - disce. 30 miles. –

Sunday 6. Apl.
Left Lavana [Levane?] at 7. a.m.; Refresh at Airctzo [Arezzo?], and Sleep at Camuchia; disce. 32 miles. –

Monday 7. April –
Set out from Camuchia at 7. a.m.; Breakfast at Pachinano, at the Lake Paruchia – and Sleep at the Town of Paruchia, situated on the Summit of a very high Hill; disce. 30 miles. –

Tuesday 8. April –
Leave Paruchia (- or Parugia) at ½ past 10. a.m. after Breakfast, and Sleep at the Town of Folignia or Foligni - disce. 20 miles. –

Wednesday 9. Apl.
Set out from Foligni at 5. a.m. – Breakfast at Spoiletta, and Sleep at the Town of Terni; disce. 36 miles.

Thursday 10. Apl.
Got up early this morning, and proceeded in a Hack Carriage to see the highly and justly Celebrated Falls of Terni, at the distance of about 3 miles from Town. – Mrs. M., and all of us very greatly delighted with this really grand and magnificent Sight. – We got back to Town in good time to Breakfast, and Set out from Terni at 11. a.m., arriving at the small Town of Otricoli at 5. P.M. – disce. 24 miles. – About Halfway between the Town of Terni and Otricoli, we passed through the Town of Varni – beautifully and Romantically Situated on the River Nera (- on which the Falls of Terni also are -), which flows past it in a very deep finely wooded Glen. – The Town of Otricoli is also situated on the River Nera, which joins the celebrated Tiber a few miles lower down. –

Friday 11. April –
At 7. a.m. Set out from Otricoli; Breakfast at Cevitta Castellano; and Sleep at Monté Rosé; - disce. 28 miles. –

Saturday 12. Apl. !!!
At 5. a.m. Set out from Monté Rosé; Breakfast at a poor miserable Inn at Storta – and arrive at the celebrated and ancient City of Rome at 12, O'Clock at Noon; – disce. 25 miles. – after being refused admittance at three other Hotels, we at length succeeded in finding accommodation at the Hotel du Grand Vaisseau in the Rue Condotti; the great influx of English occupying the principal Hotels in this City. – Here we were soon found out by our old and much esteemed Friends the [the] two Miss Stewarts, late of Albemarle Street London, who came to call upon us immediately on hearing of our arrival. – On my calling at my Bankers Messrs. Torlonia & Co., I found several Letters from our Friends at Home; in one of which from my Brother Charles, I received the first intelligence of the death of my poor Nephew Major Murdoch Maclaine of the 42d. Regt.

I also received at the same time the accounts of the recent Death of my highly esteemed and greatly valued friend General James Balfour – for which I am sincerely grieved. – I likewise received at this time the intelligence of the recent Deaths of my much esteemed friends Lieut. Genl. H. M. Gordon and Mrs. James Smith.

After Dinner, Miss Christina Stewart called upon us, and took out Lachlan, Mr. Meiklejohn and myself, in her Carriage, to see St. Peters and the Coliseum; [sic] Miss Jane Stewart (- who dined with us -) having remained at Home with Mrs. Macquarie. –

Sunday 13. April
I went Miss C. Stewart to the English Chapel, accompanied by Lachlan and Mrs. Meiklejohn – and afterwards took a Drive through the Town. –

Monday 14 April 1823.
We all accompanied Miss J. Stewart this forenoon to see St. Peters again, and also the Pantheon and some other parts of the city. The Miss Stewarts dined with us today, and took leave of us. –

Tuesday 15. April –
At 9. a.m. Set out from Rome on our projected Journey to Naples.

Breakfasted at Albano, and Slept at the town of Valetri; disce. 27 miles. –

Wedy. 16. April –
Left Valetri at ½ past 5. a.m. Breakfasted at Tre-Pont – a very poor miserable Solitary Inn in the middle of the Deadly & dangerous Pontine Marshes. – Here we fell in and made acquaintance with the Baroness Madame de Paumgarttea.

Slept at Terracina, a beautifully situated Town on the Sea Side; disce; 36 miles; putting up at a good Inn outside of the Town. –

Thursday 17. Apl.
Set out from Terracina at 7. a.m.; and passing thro' the Town of Fondi, arrived at Mola at 3. P.M. disce. only 24 miles; but there being a very large fine Inn here, we determined to halt at this Place for the Night. – This is a beautiful Situation, Commanding a fine view of the Bay of Naples and of Mount Vesuvius, and also of the Town and Port of Gaieta which is about 5 miles from it. – This is also the Site of Cicero's Villa, where that great man was put to Death by order of Augustus Ceasar. [sic]

Friday 18. April 1823.
Hired two Neapolitan Dragoons at Mola, for two Stages through that part of the Road from thence to Capua infested (at least supposed to be so -) by Banditti; and with this Escort, we set out from Mola at ½ past 5. a.m.; Breakfasted at St. Agatta, and there discharged our Escort as being no longer necessary; and Slept at the Town of Capua (where we stopt [sic] for the Night), disce. 32 miles. –

Saturday 19. April –
Set out from Capua at Half past 6. a.m. – and arrive at the celebrated City of Naples at Half past 11, O'Clock. – We first went to, and Breakfasted at the Tigre Hotel – but afterwards removed to hired Lodging at Mrs. Tooze's, at No. 92, Rue Santo Luchia, in a fine Airy Situation - and Commanding a beautiful view of the Bay of Naples, and Mount Vesuvius ! – The distance between the Town of Capua and the City of Naples is 16 miles of Neapolitan measure. –

Sunday 20. April –
I waited on Mr. Hamilton the British Envoy & Minister Plenipotentiary at the Court of Naples, who received me very politely, and we renewed our original acquaintance in Upper Egypt in the year 1801. – I afterwards accompanied Mrs. M. Lachn. & Mr. Meiklejohn in a Drive to see the Statues in the Church of Severo and to take a walk in the Villa Reale, a beautiful Promenade constructed by King Murat.

Monday 21. April 1823.
We visited the Grand Royal Museum, commonly called Museo Borbonico, containing a noble collection of ancient Statues, Pictures, and various valuable Antiquities. – I afterwards took a ride in the Carriage with Mrs. M. and Lachlan on the fine Road to the Westward of the Town constructed by King Murat. – I dined today with Mr. Hamilton the British Envoy.

Tuesday 22. April !!!
This morning early, Mr. Meiklejohn, Lachlan and myself made an Excursion to Mount Vesuvius, and returned Home to Dinner. – We were highly gratified with the grand and awful sight of that celebrated Volcano. –

In the Evening I went to the Opera at the Royal Theatre of St. Carlo, accompanied by Mr. Meiklejohn.

Wednesday 23. April ! –
We all took a short Water Excursion this morning after Breakfast in the Bay of Naples, from whence we had a very fine and most favourable view of the City and its Environs. –

We afterwards took a ride into the Country as far as Capa de Monte, and Chiesa di St. Martino, near the Castle of St. Elmo –; from both of which we had a magnificent view of the City and Bay of Naples, and adjacent Country. –

Thursday 24. Apl. –
We again Visited the royal Museum or Museo Borbonico to see the rare ancient Collections found at Pompei [sic] and Herculaneum; and we afterwards went to see the Royal Botannic [sic] Gardens. – We also took a very pleasant Drive on the Strado Napoleon made by Murat.

Friday 25. April –
We made an Excursion this forenoon to the ancient Town of "Pozzuoli" about six miles to the Westward of Naples, to view the Temples, Baths &c. there; and to see the extinguished Volcano called "Solfatara". – In both going to and returning from Pozzuoli, we passed through the Grotto of "Posilipo" –, over which is situated "Virgil's Tomb". –

Saturday 26. April –
I set out this morning, in our own Carriage, accompanied by Mr. Meiklejohn and Lachlan, for the ancient Ruins of the Celebrated City of Pompeii, about 13 miles to the Eastward of Naples; it having been Settled that Mrs. Macquarie should meet us at the Royal Palace in the Town of Portici – six miles from Naples on the Road to Pompeii. – We spent two Hours and a Half in viewing and examining the Ruins of this Celebrated Place and in admiring the several mutilated grand Edifices there.

On our return to Polici at Half past 2. P.M. we found Mrs. M. at the Royal Palace waiting for us, with an Order from the Lord High Steward to see it, and the Museum and Royal gardens. – Having taken some refreshment first, we proceeded to see the splendid Apartments of this Palace, furnished & beautifully fitted up by King Murat's tasteful Queen, afterwards the Museum, and then the Gardens, with all which we were highly gratified and returned to Naples between Six and 7, O'Clock in the Evening. –

Sunday 27. April –
We took a very pleasant Drive this afternoon on the Strada Nuovo, or Murat's new Western Road, and afterwards walked in the Villa-Reale. – I dined today with Mr. Hamilton the British Envoy, and took my leave of that very pleasant Family, previous to my departure which is fixed now for tomorrow morning on our return to Rome. –

Monday 28. April !
Set out at ½ past 6, O'Clock this morning from the beautiful and most interesting City of Naples on our return to Rome.

Breakfasted at Capua, and slept at St. Agatta – disce. 32 miles.

Tuesday 29. April –
Slept at Mola – disce. 16 miles. –

Wedy. 30. April –
Slept at Terracina – disce. 20 miles; arriving there at ½ past 10. a.m.

Source:
MACQUARIE, Lachlan. Journal. 30 November 1822 - 7 July 1823.
Original held in Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref. A776^-1 pp.42b-51a [Microfilm CY Reel 302 #Frames 224-241].