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1823

May

Thursday 1. May 1823 !
Set out from Terracina at 4. a.m.; – Halted to Breakfast, and rest our Horses at Treponte (- in the very middle of the noxious Pontine Marshes -); and Slept at Veletri; disce. 40 miles.

Friday 2. May – !!!
Left Veletri at 5. a.m.; Halted at the Town of Albano - and went to see the Lake of Albano in the immediate Vicinity of that Town, which is only remarkable for it's [sic] having been once the grand Crater of a Volcano in this Neighbourhood. –

From Albano we proceeded to the Town of Frascati, and thence (- after taking Breakfast at the former Place), Mr. Meiklejohn & myself made an Excursion mounted on Donkies [sic], to view the Ruins of the ancient City of Tusculum, including Cicero's Villa there. – After returning from thence to our Inn, Mrs. Macquarie & Lachlan, accompanied us to visit first the Cathedral, in which Pr. Chas. is buried; a beautiful Villa, with magnificent Water Works – & Gardens at Frascati; and also a fine large Palace in the same Town, containing some excellent ancient Statues, and one of Canova – done by Himself. –

Having seen those Places, we prosecuted our Journey to Rome –; where we arrived at ½ past 7. P.M.; taking up our quarters at our former Inn – the Hotel du Grand Vaisseau ! –

The disce. of this day's Journey is only 27 miles direct from Veletri. –

Saturday 3. May –
We removed this day after Breakfast from Hotel du Grand Vaisseau to Private Lodgings at No.79 in Via di Capo le Case, a fine airy situation – and a very good Commodious Lodging, for which we have agreed to pay Twelve Piastres a week, which is reasonable.

Sunday 4. May 1823 !
We went to St. Peters in the afternoon to hear Mass – and the fine Singing in that noble Temple. – We afterwards took a Drive on the Corso – and then on that delightful and beautifully constructed Promenade & River called "Monte Pincio". –

Monday 5. May –
We this afternoon visited the Forum, the Capitol, The Tarpeain Rock, the Coloseum, [sic] The Palace of the Ceasars, [sic] and the Palatine Hill. – We afterwards took a Drive to Monte Pincio. –

This day our dear Lachlan commenced his Latin Grammar !!!

Tuesday 6. May –
Visited the Pantheon and St. Peter's; and afterwards took a Drive on the Corso. –

Wednesday 7. May 1823. –
Accompanied by Mr. Meiklejohn and Lachlan, I went through the whole of the beautiful St. Peters this afternoon; having gone up into the Ball immediately under the Cross, and descended into the Subterranean Church to view the Shrine of St. Peter, and to see the numerous Tombs of the Popes and other great men, amongst which are the Tombs and real Burial Places of the 3 last Royal Stuarts ! –

Thursday 8. May !!!
We all went in the Carriage to see the Pope give his Benediction to the Populace from the Balcony of his Palace of the Quirinal at Noon, this being Ascension-Day-which here is a grand Festival. –

In the Evening about 5, O'Clock, Mrs. M. Lachlan, Mr. Meiklejohn and myself had the Honor of being Presented to His Holiness Pope Pius the 7th., at his Palace of the Quirinal by special appointment. – We afterwards walked in the Pope's Gardens, and from thence went to see the fine & beautiful churches of Santa Maria Maggiore and "Saint John Latteran"; at the last of which, we were present at the celebration of High Mass to the Cardinals, who were dressed in their proper Costume. –

Saturday 10. May !
Having yesterday afternoon made an Excursion to Tivoli, distant 20 miles from Rome, and Slept there; we this morning went to see the celebrated and beautifull Falls of Water & Neptune's sublime Grotto on the River Anio at that Place. – We also visited the Ruins of Maecenas' Palace; returning Home to Rome in the Evening. –

Sunday 11. May 1823.
We this afternoon visited that noble spacious Pile of Buildings called the Vatican – to see the Galleries of Statues & Paintings with the Sight of which – as well as with the noble Apartments and Galleries themselves, we were highly gratified. – We also went to see for the last time to St. Peters to take leave of that magnificent Temple.

After leaving St. Peters, we took a Drive on the Corso, and Monte Pincio. –

Monday 12. May –
This morning before Breakfast we went to see the Tombs and Burying Place of the Scipios, and of Cecilia Metellus - both well worth seeing; – and afterwards the Temple of Vesta, and the Great Shore called the Cloaca Maxima.

In the Evening we took a drive through different parts of the Town. –

Tuesday 13. May 1823.
We took a Drive early this morning to see various parts of the Environs of Rome; Vizt. The Church of Saint Onofico from the Terrace in the front of which is a most magnificent and extensive view of the city of Rome and of the surrounding Country; – the Grand Fountain of Paolina, and the Villa Doria Pamfili. –

In the Evening we took another Drive to take a second leave of the Magnificent St. Peters !

Wednesday 14. May –
We this forenoon went to visit the Bhorgese [Borghese] & Farnese Palaces, the Pictures in the former being very fine and extensive – we also visited Canova celebrated Studdi of fine Statuary. – After Dinner we went in the Carriage to see the beautiful Villa of the Prince Borghese about three miles out of Town, with which we were very highly gratified. –

Thursday 15. May 1823 !!!
Set out early this morning from the fascinating and magnificent City of Rome. – Breakfasted at Bocano, and Slept at Roncialione, [sic] near a very pretty small Lake; disce. 35 miles. –

Friday 16. May –
Breakfast at Vilerto – and Sleep at Monte Fesconi; [sic] disce. 27 miles. –

Saturday 17. May –
Left Monte Fesconi [sic]very early, passed thro' the Town of Bolsena on the side of the beautiful large Lake of the same Name; Breakfasted at [J*****] and Slept at Radicofini disce. 40 miles. This is the frontier Town, on this side, of the Tuscan Dominions, and is very romantically situated on the side of a High Hill, on the top of which is an old Fortress. –

Sunday 18. May –
Breakfasted at La Scalla – a Single Inn on the Road – and Slept at Buonconvente – disce. 30 miles.

Monday 19. May –
Breakfasted at the large City of Sienne [sic] – where we visited the Cathedral, which is a remarkably fine Church - and a very ancient one. – We Slept at the small Town of Poggibonsi - disce. 30 miles.

Tuesday 20. May !
Breakfasted at the small Town of Casciane – and arrived at Florence at 3. P.M. – disce. 24 miles; putting up at our former Quarters in that City - namely - Chez Mr. Hembert's Hotel, "Palazzo Acciajoli".

Wednesday 21 May –
I called this forenoon to pay my respects to Lord Burghersh the British Ambassador – and also on Lord Hawarden's Family.

We drove out in the Evening in the Cascini. –

Thursday 22. May –
I dined with Lord Burghersh. Visited the Museum in the forenoon with Mrs. M. and drove out in the Evening in the Cascini.

Friday 23. May –
We went early this morning to see the celebrated Fiesole, the site of the ancient Roman City of Feasulea, distant 3½ miles from Florence, and from whence there is a very fine view of the adjacent Country; returning Home to Breakfst. – In the Evening we took a Drive in the Cascina.

Saturday 24. May –
We went early this morning to see the Palace of Careggi de Medici - and the Gardens attached thereto, about 3 miles out of Town; returning Home to Breakfst.

In the Evening after Dinner, we took a Drive in the Cascina. –

Sunday 25. May –
We went today before Dinner to see the beautiful and magnificent Palace of His Highness The Prince Borghese in the City of Florence - which we all very much admired.

After Dinner we rode out in the Cascina ! –

Monday 26. May 1823 !
Set out from Florence early this morning for Venice, which we purpose to see. – Breakfasted at Maschere - and Slept at Pietramala – disce. 33 miles.

Tuesday 27. May –
Breakfasted at Pogioli, and Slept at the City of Bologna, disce. 30 miles. – This is a fine City; with a great many Handsome Buildings and very Clean Street. – It is also situated in the midst of a very rich well cultivated fruitful Country, with a Branch of the River Reno running through it. – We put up at the Grande Imperiale Hotel, which is a good and a reasonable one. –

Wednesday 28. May –
Breakfasted at Il Tedo – and Slept at Ferrara – disce. 28 miles.

Between the City of Bologna and the Town of Ferrara, the Country is the richest and best cultivated I ever saw; being like a Garden the whole way, and as level as a Bowling Green; finely wooded, and the Farm House neat and Comfortable. –

Between Il Tedo and Ferrara, we crossed the River Reno, by a Ferry, on a Platform Boat.

Thursday 29. May –
Set out from Ferrara at 7. a.m., soon after which we crossed the large and celebrated River Po by a Ferry, on a large Platform Boat, or Punt, very commodiously and in a very quick space of time; having crossed it in 7 minutes, and the River being here nearly Half a mile Broad. –

About six miles previous to our reaching Rovigo, we crossed the large Bianca Canal by a Ferry. We did not Stop to Breakfast any where on the Road between Ferrara and Rovigo. – We arrived at this last mentioned Town at 2. P.M. disce. 24 miles. – Put up at the Hotel St. Maras for the Night. –

Friday 30. May –
Set out from Rovigo at 6. a.m. and at about 3 miles from thence we crossed the large and very beautiful River Adige – by a Ferry, the same as at the River Po by a Plat-Form-Boat.

Stopped to Breakfast at the Romantic and pretty Village of Monselese - situated at the foot of a high conical Hill, the sides and top of which are covered with ancient Roman Fortifications. –

At 5. P.M. arrived at the ancient City of Padua – disce. 24 miles. – We put up at a very good Hotel called the Stella D'ora. –

Saturday 31 May –
Left Padua at 6. a.m. – and arrived at the Town of Mestré at 11, O'Clock; disce. 22 miles.

The Ride between Padua, and Mestré, is a most delightful one and the whole of the Country we have passed through for the last three days, between Bologna and Mestré;, is like one continual Garden, quite level, finely wooded and well cultivated and remarkably well watered by the several Rivers and Canals that pass through it. – The Stage between Padua and Mestré; is particularly striking, the whole of both sides of the Piero Canal or River being Studded with fine Villas, Houses, Gardens, Orchards and Vineyards. –

We remained at Mestré, where we Breakfasted, to rest ourselves for some Hours. – Here I met with my old acquaintance Mr. Jas. Law late of Bombay – with his Family on their return from Venice.

At ½ past 2. P.M. we hired a Gondola at Mestré, and set out in it to cross the Channel to cross the wonderful and beautiful City of Venice, disce. 7 miles from the Town of Mestré. – We landed at this extraordinary City at ¼ past 4. P.M. being only one Hour and three quarters in crossing the Channel or Lagune [sic] separating it from the mainland.

We put up at the London or Royal Imperial Hotel, kept by Danielli; – which situated on the Harbour - and open to the Sea; being a very airy beautiful Situation, having the Doge's or Ducal Palace, and the fine Church of St. Marco, on our Right, and handsome broad Stone Quay in our Front.

We remained at Venice for three days, during which time we went to see the principal Places of Public resort in that celebrated and wonderful City; namely - the Public Gardens and Quays; the Promenades of the Piazzade St. Marco, and Rialto, the Palazzo del Doge - or Ducal Palace; Palazzo Grimani; Cathedral of St. Marco; Church of Giovanni & Pauls; Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa de Fraté Church of St. Rocco; Scuola de San Rocco; Church of Santa Maria de la Saluté Church of the Jesuits; and the old (and first church built at Venice) Church called ...... [name omitted] near the Rialto Bridge. – We also ascended to the Top of the noble and beautiful Tower of St. Marco, from whence we had a most extensive, magnificent, and interesting view of the City of Venice, its Canals, the Harbour, Adriatic Sea, and the **** of its Environs as far as Padua !

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Source:
MACQUARIE, Lachlan. Journal. 30 November 1822 - 7 July 1823.
Original held in Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref. A776-1 pp.51b-60a [Microfilm CY Reel 302 #Frames 242-259].

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