March

Sunday 2. March–
Mrs. M., Lachlan, Mr. Meiklejohn, and myself, took a very pleasant Ride this afternoon to see the Convent called "the Hermitage", or, "Notre Dam [sic] D'Hyeres", which is very beautifully Situated on a High Hill about 3 miles to the South West of the Town of Hyeres.

This Convent is now converted into a Chapel, and has a very fine Alter [sic] Piece Painted by the Celebrated Artist Puget.–

Friday 7. March !
I went this morning after Breakfast in the Carriage, accompanied only by George, to Toulon to draw Money from my Bankers there to pay our Expences at Hyeres &c. &c. and also to deliver over to the Carriers at Toulon some articles of Baggage we are sending back to Paris to remain there till sent for to meet us at Calais when we return to England.

Having executed this Business, and made some little Business, and made some little Purchases at Toulon, I returned Home to Hyeres to Dinner.–

Saturday 8. March !!!
Mrs. Macquarie and myself, at the particular desire of Mr. Meiklejohn his Tutor, had the happiness of attending the examination of our beloved Boy Lachlan, in the different Branches of his present Studies; in which we have the gratification of finding he has made very great progress, considering the Short time he has been under the tuition of Mr. Meiklejohn, who has great credit for bringing on his Pupil so well– and so rapidly; having only had these Seven last Weeks at Hyeres for regular permanent Study without the interruption of Travelling.–

Sunday 9. March !
The severity of the Winter Weather being now at an end in this part of France, and Mrs. Macquarie's Health being considerably improved since her arrival here; we have determined on leaving Hyeres tomorrow, and proceeding to Italy, where we purpose Spending a few weeks before the extreme hot weather sets in that Country; intending to Travel thither by way of Nice and Genoa.– I this day paid off all my Accounts and Bills this day at Hyeres, and called on the few friends we have here previous to departure.–

Monday 10. March !!!
At ½ past 8. a.m. after having Breakfasted, we set out from Hyeres.– It was and disagreeable cold morning, and blowing a high North West Wind.– Halted for One Hour and a Half at the small Town of Puget, to Dine and rest our Horses:– bad Inn and bad Fare.

At ¼ before 7. P.M. arrived at our Night's Quarters at the Town of Luc– putting up at the Hotel de la Poste; a very large but very bad ill provided Inn;– disce. from Hyeres about 36 miles.–

Tuesday 11. March !
Mrs. Macquarie being very much indisposed this morning, and unable to Travel, we are unavoidably compelled to remain in this agreeable Inn all this Day.–

Wednesday 12. March.
Our beloved Boy being this morning very much indisposed with Cold and Fever, and requiring some medicine to be administered to him, it has been deemed most advisable to remain for this day also at Luc.– Mrs. M. is better today, but not yet quite Stout enough to Travel in this disagreeable windy cold Weather.

Thursday 13. March !
This being a very fine morning, and both Mrs. M. and our dear Boy being considerably better, we set out after Breakfast from Le Luc on our Journey to Nice, and passing through the small Towns of Vidauban and Muy, arrived at the Town of Fréjus at Half past 4. P.M. disce. 27½ miles. Put up at the Hotel "Quatre Saisons".

Friday 14. March–
Took an early Breakfast, and Set out at ½ past 8. a.m. on our Journey.– Arrived at ½ past 2. P.M. at the Town of Cannes, disce. 25 miles; putting up at the Hotel de la Poste; which finding a clean good Inn, we determined on passing the Night, altho' we did intend going on a stage farther, on account of its being early in the Day.

Saturday 15. March–
Got up this morning at 6, O'Clock, and after taking some refreshment set out at ¼ past 7 on our Journey.

At ½ past 9. arrived at the fortified Town of Antibes 10 miles from Cannes.– Here we were detained above an Hour to have our Passports examined; Antibes being the last Fortified Town in the French Territory in this Quarter of it.– At 11. a.m. we stopt [sic] to take some Breakfast at a miserable Inn called Luc, within a mile of the Village of Kannue.–

At 12 we were stopt [sic] at the Barrier on the Bridge over the River "Var", which divides France from Italy.– Here we were detained for near an Hour to have our Passports examined, our names & ages being taken down, and the description, Size and the age of our Horses.– After crossing to the Italian side of the Var and entering the Territory of the King of Sardinia, we were stopped and examined at the Italian Barrier at the end of the Bridge over the Var. This Bridge is upwards of a quarter of an English mile long.– After leaving the Var, we experienced no further interruption till we arrived at Nice, the first Town in Italy, which we reached at ½ past 3. P.M. and took up our residence at a very handsome large Inn called "Hotel Des Etrangers"– kept by Monsr. Laurent.– Nice is a large pretty Town, beautifully and finely Situated on the Sea, which washes its walls; having many handsome fine Buildings, and the Streets and Promenades kept remarkably clean. It is surrounded on three sides by high Hills, the sides of which are studded with very handsome Country Houses and Villas, Orchards, Gardens, and Vineyards.

Sunday 16. March–
We took a Drive through the Town of Nice, and Visited the Port where we hired a Feluque to convey us from Nice to Genoa for four Napoleons or 80 Francs; the master of which (Joseph Carpena) has engaged to sail early on Tuesday morning (Wind and Weather permitting) and hopes to be able to land us at Genoa in 36 Hours– the distance by Sea being nearly 120 miles.–

Monday 17. March !
We had the greater part of our Baggage, and also the Carriage embarked this day on board our hired Feluque, in order to be ready to sail in the morning for Genoa; in case the Wind should be fair. We have also ordered Provisions to be got ready and prepared for the Voyage.– Glaude, our Coach Driver, not wishing to embark his Horses, and to convey them by Water to Genoa, proceeds thither by Land, across the mountains, and he will take 4 days to perform the Journey– commencing tomorrow morning.–

Tuesday 18. March–
The Weather being very fine and settled– and the Wind also being fair for us, we have made all the necessary preparations for Commencing our Voyage for Genoa; but on sending for our Shipper, he told us he could not be ready to sail till the afternoon.– We however sent our Baggage on board the Feluque; and at 3. P.M. our Commander came to inform us he was then ready to sail. We accordingly proceeded to the Port in a Carriage, embarked and sailed out of the Harbour at ½ past 3,O'Clock P.M. with the Wind fair– but blowing only a light Breeze.– We soon passed the small Town of Ville Franche - about 3 miles to the Eastward of Nice, which is the proper Sea Port of the latter City; the Mole or Port immediately contiguous there to being only fit for giving Shelter to small Vessels.

At Sunset the Breeze (- blowing from the North West -) freshened very considerably, and we appered [sic] to be going at the rate of at least Seven Knots (or miles) an Hour.– The view of the mountainous Coast, and numerous small Towns & Villages at their Base, and on the face of them, was very grand and Picturesque, as we Sailed along it during Day-light.– We dined on some Cold Roast Beef but our accommodation for the Night was very indifferent and particularly so for poor Mrs. Macquarie; all of us being obliged to keep on our Clothes.–

Wednesday 19. March–
It blew very fresh all last Night, and the Wind being fair we had a remarkable fine run.– At day-light, the Town of Genoa was in sight, and at ½ past 7, O'Clock this morning, we entered the Noble Mole of the Harbour of that ancient City:– thus having performed a Voyage of 120 miles from Nice to Genoa in exactly Sixteen Hours !!!

In approaching Genoa the view of that noble City itself, the Mole, the Light House, and the surrounding mountain Scenery, with the Harbour full of Shipping, is truly grand and magnificent - and is the finest sight of the kind I have ever beheld;– and we were accordingly all highly gratified with it.–

After all the necessary forms of the Port, and the usual examination of Passports &c. had been gone through, we were allowed to disembark ourselves with a few changes of Linens; for, it being a Holiday, our Baggage and Carriage cannot be allowed to be landed till tomorrow; and George is obliged to remain on board in charge of both.–

We took up our Quarters at the "Hotel de la Ville" a very large & magnificent House near the Quay.– It had formerly been the Mansion of one of the Senators, when this magnificent City was an Independent and Free Republic.–

After Breakfast I went out with Lachlan & Mr. M. his Tutor, to take a stroll through the Town - and to call on my Bankers Messrs. Campbell Lavers & Co.– We returned Home highly gratified with such Parts of the Town as we had seen; the Buildings being generally very elegant, but the Streets are very narrow.

Thursday 20 March–
Mr. Lavers the Banker having called on us this morning, and obligingly offered to be our guide, and Conductor to shew us some of the principal Public and Private Buildings in the town, we most willingly availed ourselves of his kind offer.– We accordingly visited the following Palaces and other Public Buildings: 1. Palais Durazzo– Pictures ! 2. Palais Serra– Golden Room ! 3. Eglise de l'annonciation– 4. Eglise de St. Siro– Marble– 5. Eglise de Carignano– 4 Statues and Bridge built by the Family of Sauli 6. Palais Ducal– The Doge's Palace 7. The Promenade along the Ramparts.

Friday 21. March–
We went to see some of the other Parts of the Town today that we had not visited yesterday; and in the afternoon we took a Drive in a Hackney Coach for about 3 miles on the Road towards Nice, and to see the Light House &c. &c.

The Drive was a very pleasant one, and the view of the Town as we returned back was very grand.– On our way out we met our friend Glaude Demilly with his 3 Horses coming into Town after his Journey over the mountains from Nice, which he has taken nearly four days in performing.–

Saturday 22. March.–
It was our intention to have set out as this day in prosecution of our Journey to Rome; but, the Horses requiring a day to rest, and tomorrow being Sunday, we have necessarily [sic] postponed our departure till Monday.–

We took another stroll today through the Town to see various parts of it, accompanied by Mr. Lavers; and in the afternoon, we took another Drive on the Nice Road farther on than yesterday.

Sunday 23. March–
We went all to the English Chapel (with the exception of Mrs. M. who found it necessary to stay at Home), along with Mr. Lavers & Family, and were gratified with an excellent Discourse from the Honble. and Revd. Mr. Harris, who officiated as Chaplain at this Private Chapel, which is supported at the expence of the English merchants residing at Genoa.

In the afternoon Mr. Lavers accompanied us in a Hired Carriage to see the Country Palace Garden & Museum of Mr. Durazzo on the Road to Nice– and afterwards the Palace of Andrea Doria, on the same Road.– Mrs. M. and all of us were much pleased with the Sight of those Places.

We returned Home to Dinner, and afterwards went to Drink Tea with Mr. & Mrs. Lavers, and to take leave of these kind Friends.–

Monday 24. March–
Set out from Genoa at 7. a.m.; Breakfasted at a poor Inn at the st. Tunnel through the Mountain, a little way beyond the small Town of Recco on the Gulph of Genoa; and arrived at the Town of Sestri at 7. P.M.– Putting up at the Hotel de Londres– a bad and dear Inn. disce. 35 miles.–

Tuesday 25. March–
Left Sestri at ½ past 4. a.m. Breakfasted at Borghetti, a miserable dirty Inn in a dirty small Village on the Banks of the River Varro.– The Road, as far as this Village, tho' Hilly, was very good; but here, a very bad Road commences, and continues for six miles; the Carriage being frequently obliged to leave the Road and Travel in the Bed of the River Varro, which is very stony.

At 7. P.M. arrived at the Town of Spezia, at the Head of the small Gulph of the same name, and put up at the Hotel D'Europa - a good Inn - and the People very civil; disce. 30 miles.

N.B. This Place very much resembles Lochnacoile and the Plains & mountains of Jarvisfield !–

Wednesday 26. March–
Set out from Spezia at 7. a.m. and arrive at Sarzana at 10, O'Clock, where we Breakfasted. Previous to our arrival here we crossed the large River Magnas in a Boat; the Horses and Carriage fording it higher up the Stream.– Arrived at the Town of Pietro Santo at 6. P.M. Putting up at the Hotel de la Poste; disce. 30 miles.

Thursday 27. March–
Left Pietro Santo at 5. a.m., and arrived at the Town of Lucca at 10, O'Clock, and Breakfasted there, at a very good Hotel.– Near Lucca we crossed a fine River called the Serchio.– This is a very fine large Town, walled in and surrounded by a rich beautiful Country.– Set out from Lucca at 1. P.M. and arrived at the Town of Pisa at ½ past 4, O'Clock.– Here we quitted our own Carriage, leaving it at Pisa for the purpose of the Baggage being examined, under the care of George and Glaude, and hired a Carriage & Horses to convey us directly to the Town of Leghorn (distant 15 miles from Pisa) where we arrived at ½ past 7. P.M.; putting up at the Hotel de St. Marco, kept by Mr. Thomson.– This day's Journey is about 40 miles.

Friday 28. March !!!
This being the happy anniversary of our beloved Lachlan's Birth Day, we have resolved on keeping and celebrating it at this great Trading City of Leghorn; and finding here my old Brother Officer and esteemed friend Lieut. Genl. Lachlan Maclean (- who called on us this morning at our Hotel) we have invited him and his Nephew Mr. Robt. Campbell to dine with us to keep our dear Boy's Birth-Day; Lachlan himself being allowed to order the Dinner he liked bst.– After Breakfast today, Mrs. M. and myself rode out in a hired Carriage to see the Town, and take a Short Airing into the Country in the Vicinity; Lachlan and his Tutor Mr. Meiklejohn accompanying us on Horseback !– We sat down at ½ past 4, O'Clock to a most excellent Dinner of Lachlan's ordering - and spent the day happily and Jovially.–

In the Evening we accompanied Genl. Maclean to drink Tea with his Sister Mrs. Campbell, and his Niece Mrs. Crokat [?] with whom he is at present living at Leghorn.– We took leave of his Friends at 10, O'Clock and returned Home to our Hotel.–

Saturday 29. March–
Set out from Leghorn at ½ past 6. a.m.; Breakfasted at the fine large City of Pisa, where we remained fror three Hours to see the Town; and then leaving it, we arrived at the Village of Lascalles at ½ past 8. P.M.; putting up for the Night at a very poor miserable dirty little Inn called Hotel de la Poste !

Sunday 30. March !
Left Lascalle at 6. a.m.; Halted to Breakfast and rest our Horses at the Village of Lisca– at a very poor Inn for two Hours.– We then resumed our Journey; but in consequence of one of our Horses not being very well, we did not arrive at the grand celebrated City of Florence till 4. P.M.– Putting up at the Hotel "Palazzo Acciajoli" kept by Mr. Hembert.–

N.B. The distance between Leghorn and Florence (via Pisa) is 64 English Miles.–

We find ourselves very well accommodated at this Hotel, and at a reasonable rate; having only about 40 Francs for our Lodgings & Diet.–

Monday 31. March !
Soon after Breakfast, I went out in a hired Carriage to call upon and pay my respects to the British Ambassador to the Grand Duke of Tuscany Lord Burghersh, who I had formerly known in England and who received very kindly and introduced me to his Lady.

After returning Home I took a long Stroll with Mrs. M. and Lachlan thro' the Town, and visited the Cathedral and some of the Principal Churches.– After Dinner we walked in the Gardens of the Grand Duke.–

Source:
MACQUARIE, Lachlan. Journal. 30 November 1822 - 7 July 1823.
Original held in Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref. A776-1 pp.28a-42a [Microfilm CY Reel 302 #Frames 195-223].