May 1807

Friday 1st. May 1807.
We made no great progress in our Voyage this day, not being able to track above two miles an hour from the strength of the current and wind against us. — Passed several Arab Encampments on both Banks of this River with their Flocks. —

Saturday 2d. May —
The Jungle along both Banks of the River being very thick, and the Trees being high, our Trackers were much interrupted in their progress, and consequently we got on very slowly, not going above two miles an hour at most. Passed many Arab Villages and Encampments in the course of today.

Sunday 3d. May 1807.
The Jungle still continues very thick down to the edge of the water on both sides of the River, and we do not get on more than two miles and hour. —

Monday 4th. May —
At 10.a.m. we passed the small Town of Hie on the Left Bank of the River, which takes its name from this Town. — The Jungle still continues to interrupt our progress – but not quite so much as during the two last days. — We have gone all this day at the rate of about 2½ miles an hour. — Passed several Arab Encampments and Villages in the course of this day.

Tuesday 5th. May 1807.
At Noon this day we quitted the Hie – and entered the Celebrated River Tigris, near a small Town called Coote – where it is about half a mile broad – and runs N. West and S. East. — The Town of Coote is on the Left Bank of the Tigris. — We stopped there for about an hour to procure some supplies. — The Sheik paid us a Visit on board the Boat, and I delivered him Mr. Manesty's Letter; presenting him at the same time with a Coat – for which he appeared to be very thankful.

I wrote a Letter from this place to Mr. Manesty dated 1.P.M. this day; giving it in charge to the Sheik, who promised to forward it to Bussora by the first opportunity.

We set out from Coote and continued our Voyage up the Tigris at a qr. before 2.P.M., tracking briskly at the rate of 3½ miles an hour -; the left Bank being here pretty clear of Jungle for a little way.

Having been 4½ days or 108 Hours constantly Tracking or Rowing up the Hie to its [its] junction with the River Tigris, or Shat el Amaara; and reckoning that we went, on an average, at two miles an hour, the distance from the mouth of the Hie to the Tigris will be 216 miles: making thus the distance from Bussora to Coote – by our Route 440 miles.

From 3 till 7.P.M. we had a short spurt of Southerly wind, and sailed for that time at 4½ miles an hour; so that we went 37 miles since we left Coote till midnight between sailing and Tracking.

Wednesday 6th. May 1807.
We Tracked all this day at the rate of about 3 miles an hour. —

Thursday 7th. May 1807. —
We continued Tracking briskly all this day at the rate of 3½ miles an hour.

Between 3 and 4,O'Clock P.M. I saw a Lion on the Right Bank of the River – where he had been just drinking. — These noble Animals are very numerous in the Jungle on both sides of Tigris in this part of it; which accounts for our not having seen any Arab Villages or Encampments for these last 24 Hours of our Voyage. —

At 6.P.M. we passed a fine large green Island, covered with Trees and Shrubs, in the middle of the River, which is here 1½ mile broad.

Friday 8th. May 1807.
We Tracked all this day much about the same rate as yesterday without meeting with any occurrence worthy of notice. — Passed another Green Island near the Left Bank of the river – passing between the Island and the Main. —

Saturday 9th. May 1807.
At Day break this morning we were abreast of the grand beautiful Ruin of Tauhk Kaissera ! — At 5.A.M. Dr. Thomas, Lt. Brande and myself, attended by our two Turkish Soldiers, landed near the Ruins of the ancient Celebrated city of Ctesiphon, in order to view them and the remains of the Magnificent Palace of Tauhk Kaissera, having the highest and finest Arch I ever saw in my life in any Country. — Near these noble Ruins we saw a Lion at a little distance – but too far from us to get a shot at. —

After viewing the Ruins we shot along the Desert till half past 11,O'Clock, when we came up with our Boat again near the mouth of the River Deaala, which falls here into the Tigris, about 15 miles above Tauhk Kaissera; which distance, at least, we must have walked during our shooting Excursion, and we returned very tired and very hungry to our Boat.

At 2.P.M. I dispatched a Letter by land to Mr. Hine the Acting British Resident at Bagdad, to inform him that I hoped to arrive there this Evening. —

At 5.P.M. we saw at a great distance the Mosques and Minarets of Bagdad, the approach to that celebrated City up the River Tigris being very grand; - and the distant view of it, over the different Reaches of the River, as we drew nearer to it, was a very magnificent Sight. —

We did not reach the City of Bagdad till 10,O'Clock at Night; and the Gates being then shut, we did not land but slept on board our own Boat: — thus making a very good Passage from Bussora in 11½ Days -; the distance by water, by the Route we came not being less than 750 British miles, on a very moderate Calculation from Bussora to Bagdad. —

The City of Bagdad is Situated on both the Eastern and Western Banks of the River Tigris, in Turkey in Asia, and lies in Latd. 33° – 20' North – and in Long. 43° – 51' East; being a remarkable fine Climate. — The City is well built, larger, and Populous, and Governed by a Bashaw of three Tails ! —

Sunday 10th. May 1807.
We got up to dress between 5 and 6,O'Clock this morning; but before we were ready to go on shore, we were very politely visited by Mr. Hine the Acting British Resident at Bagdad, accompanied by Major O'Neill of H.M. 56th. Regt., on board of our Boat, and conducted to the English Factory between 6 and 7,O'Clock, where Mr. Hine had a good Breakfast and excellent good Apartments prepared for us. —

Immediately after Breakfast Mr. Hine sent to the Bashaw to announce our arrival, and to inform him that I had a Letter for him from the Governor of Bombay, ready to be delivered whenever he should be pleased [to] receive it – by waiting on him in Person with it – or otherwise as might be most agreeable to His Highness. —

The Bashaw begged the Letters I had for him might be sent to him -; and having perused them, he sent back a civil complimentary message to say that he had no objection to my prosecuting my Journey to England Overland through the Turkish Territories as far as his own Government and authority extended – but that beyond that he could not, under present circumstances, give me any protection – or ensure my safety. — Finding that I was not to expect any great assistance from the Bashaw, I determined at once to abandon the original plan of proceeding by Constantinople as altogether impracticable; and nearly the same difficulties being likely to occur in going by the second proposed Route of Teflis into Russia, I was also advised to relinquish every idea of proceeding in that direction.

I have consequently, by the advice of Mr. Hine, come to the resolution of prosecuting my Journey to England through Persia to the Caspian Sea – and thence to Russia. — I have therefore determined to set out from hence by the very first Caravan proceeding to Tiran or any other part of Persia. — Dr. Thomas & Lieut. Brande are still to accompany me by this new Route, and we are to be joined by Major O'Neill of the 56th. Regt. – who has determined to make one of our Party to England – and who will be a valuable acquisition to our little Society – being a very pleasant well informed man.

Monday 11th. May 1807. —
The Bashaw sent a second message this afternoon to Mr. Hine - signifying that on a reperusal of the Letters from Govr. Duncan and Mr. Manesty, and from a wish to oblige them and me, he would take it upon himself to allow myself and my Party to proceed direct to Constantinople and to give us Protection thither, in case we particularly wished to go by that Route; but that he could not answer for our being allowed to proceed from thence by the Ottoman Court, or for what might be the consequence of our proceeding bt that Route, that the one by Telflis was totally impracticable on account of the present war between the Turks and the Russians; but that if we chose to go by way of Persia and the Caspian, he would ensure us of Protection from Bagdad through the Turkish to the Persian Territories.

We returned our best thanks, through Mr. Hine, to the Bashaw for his most kind and handsome message; and on a full consideration of all circumstances, we determined to adhere to our former resolution – and to avail ourselves of his last offer. —

Friday 15th. May 1807.
Mr. Hine having contracted Yesterday with a Charawardaror, Caravan-Bashi, conductor of a small Caravan of Horses, Mules, and Asses, from Bagdad to Rusht, close on the Shores of the Caspian, to conduct myself & Party and our Baggage thither; and having Purchased Horses, and hired the necessary Establishment of attendants & Servants for us, according to the annexed List; X we this morning made all the necessary preparations for setting out this Evening after Dinner from hence, Mr. Hine having behaved to us all with the greatest kindness and hospitality, and taken every pains in his power to facilitate our Journey, and secure our safe arrival at the Caspian.

Mr. Hine has charged me with the conveyance of an additional Packet for the Court of Directors, and is therefore so good as to send his own Second Linguist Minas Mackeil (an Armenian, a very smart young man, who speaks English Turkish and Persian) along with me as far as the Caspian, which he does on Public grounds of utility with the view of facilitating the safe arrival of the three Packets, I now have charge of, there. —

At 7.P.M. we set out from Bagdad with the Caravan, which we joined at the Eastern Gate of the City at Sunset. — We travelled all Night over a flat Desert Country in an East and N. East direction from Bagdad. —

Saturday 16th. May — 7
At 8. a.m. arrived and halted at Baucooba, distant 30 miles from Bagdad; having ferried over a small rapid River close to and before we reached the Town. —

At 9.P.M. we set out from Baucooba, and travelled all night in nearly the same direction with the last over a flat country, but in many places well cultivated – the Roads also being very good. —

Sunday 17th. May 1807
At 8. a.m. arrived and halted during the day at Shairbaun, [?] a small Town distant 30 miles from Baucooba. —

At 12,O'Clock, set out from Shairbaun [?] and continued travelling all Night very slowly – the Roads being very rough and stony – particularly over the Hamareen Hills, which we crossed in the Night. —

Monday 18th. May — 7
At 6. a.m. arrived and halted near the Town of Kusserabad – distant only 14 miles from our last Stage. —

At 10.P.M. Set out from Kusserabad, and in the course of the Night crossed part of the wild Curdistan Hills, very high, and the Road through them winding very much, steep, rough and stony. —

The Curds, or Inhabitants if this wild looking Country, are famous Robbers, but none of them molested us. —

Sunday [sic: Tuesday] 19th. May 1807
At 5,O'Clock this morning, we arrived at the town of Khonachie, Encamping close to it on the Bank of a fine Canal; disce. from last Stage 16 miles. — Khonachie is walled round, with the fine River Aulwanat running close to it, and over which there is an excellent Bridge of Seven arches – in good repair. —

At midnight, set out from Khonachie, and travelled all Night over the Curdistan Hills – the roads very steep and stony. —

Monday [sic: Wednesday] 20th. May 1807
At 7 a.m. arrived at the Ruins of the ancient City of Kaussera Shaireen, and Encamped on the Right Bank of the River Aulwanat, here a beautiful rapid stream, disce. from last Stage being 16 miles. — There is a very good Caravansera at this place; visited it and the Ruins of the City great part of the walls which are entire and enclose an immense extent of level ground, surrounded by very high and barren Mountains. — I bathed in the River in the Evening and found myself greatly refreshed by it. —

At 10.P.M. Set out from Kaussera Shaireen, travelling all night across the rest of the Curdistan Hills and Mountains – some of which are very high.

Thursday 21st. May – 7
At 4. a.m. arrived and halted near a small Curd Village on the Right Bank, of the River Aulwanat, running here through a beautiful extensive Valley – which is however very little Cultivated by the Savage indolent Curds. — disce. from last stage 15 miles. — This Village – or fine Valley – is called Serpulasaho – and terminates nearly the extensive Province of Curdistan on the East and the Turkish Territories on the same Quarter – bordering on those of the Persian Monarchy; being here divided by a most formidable Barrier of wild rugged lofty mountains. —

At ½ past 6.P.M. Set out from the Valley of Serpulasaho, and entered another soon afterwards of still greater extent and bordered on each hand by immense high Rocky mountains almost perpendicular. —

At 11.P.M. after having ascended a very steep rough stony Road, winding along the side of a very high Mountain, we arrived at the Tauk – or Arch – forming here the Boundary between the Turkish and the Persian Territories; & where the King of Persia has established a Toll on every description of the Human and Brute Creation entering his Dominions by this wild Pass; we were detained here for above half an hour while this Tribute was collecting from our Caravan and its Passengers. —

The moon shone beautifully bright when we ascended this mountainous Pass, and the immense high wild scenery of it, tho' terrific, was truly magnificent and Sublime.

Friday 22d. May 1807.
At ½ past 5. a.m. after a most tiresome and fatiguing Journey of about 25 miles from our last stage, over Hills and mountains, and the worst and roughest Roads I ever travelled in any Country, we arrived and halted in a fine Valley near the town of Sieramiel. — We are now in Persia; and in order to give our Cattle some rest, our Caravan-Bashi means to remain here till early tomorrow morning – and then start fresh again. —

Saturday 23d. May — 7.
The Caravan-Bashi finding his Cattle still much fatigued, has resolved on remaining here another day to refresh them sufficiently for the Journey.

Sunday 24th. May — 7.
At 1.a.m. set out from Sermiel [sic] and after a very short march of 6 miles halted in the Valley of Serkrinde. [?]

At 9.P.M. Left Serkrindetravelled all Night through a hilly mountainous Country, and occasionally through Valleys Skirted by them; the [word omitted] being pretty good most of the way. —

Monday 25th. May — 7
At 6. a.m arrived at Serachisma, disce. 20 miles from last Stage. —

At 10.P.M. Renewed our Journey, travelling through much the same kind of Country as we did last night, only the Roads much worse in most places. —

Tuesday 26th. May.
At 4. a.m. arrived and Encamped in the beautiful extensive fertile Valley of Moidaisht; disce. 14 miles from last Stage.

Saw snows still lying in the clefts of some mountains at a short distance to the N. East of our present Ground; the weather being very cold and chilly till Sunrise. —

At 11.P.M. Set out again, and travelled all Night over a very mountainous wild barren looking Country; but theRoads in general were tolerably good. —

Wednesday 27th. May 1807
At ½ past 5. a.m. arrived and halted close to the large and populous Town of Kermansha, situated in a most beautiful deep Valley, surrounded on every side by immense Lofty mountains or very high Hills, which give it a romantic and pretty appearance in approaching towards it. — There are a vast number of both Vineyards and Orchards in the vicinity of the Town -; but the Fruits are not yet in Season; nor is the Corn here yet ripe either. Kermansha is 15 miles distant from our last Ground. — There is a large Fort on the S. E. and a smaller one on the S. W. side of the Town of Kermansha. — There is also a fine River, wt. a good Bridge over it, runs through the middle of this beautiful Valley close to the Town. —

Thursday 28th. May 1807.
At ½ past 2. a.m. Left Kermansha and after a short Journey of 3 miles halted at ½ past 7. at the extremity of the same Valley close to the Mountains.

Friday 29th. May 1807.
At 1. a.m. Resumed our Journey again winding round an immense high Rocky Mountain on our Left, on a very good Road, and a fine River on our Right. —

At Day-break passed by a large fine Caravansara on our Right at Beesatoon where there is some ancient Persian Figures and Inscriptions carved in the face of the Mountain – here very high.

At 7. a.m. Halted in a fine Meadow near Sahana; disce. from our last Stage 15 miles. —

Saturday 30th. May 1807.
At 1. a.m. Resumed our Journey and at ½ past 6. halted at a fine Spring of Fresh Water at Seira Aub; disce. from last Stage 12 miles – the Roads good through Cultivated Vallies [sic]. — Passed through the Town of Sahana at Day-break. —

At 10.P.M. Set out again from the springs and travelled all Night through a very wild hilly Country – the Roads being very bad. —

Sunday 31st. May —
At 3.a.m. Passed through the Town of Kongiawaur, and at ½ past 6. halted at Jesma – disce. 18 miles from last Ground. —

At 11.P.M. Set out from Jesma, and travelled all Night over a fine extensive well Cultivated Plain – the Roads good. —

Provenance
Lachlan Macquarie. Journal 18 March 1807 – 17 October 1807.
Original mss. held in the Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Reference: A771 pp.39-66 [Microfilm: CY Reel 300 Frames #-#].