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June 1807
Monday 1st. June — At ½ past 6.P.M. set out from Tootauge, and travelled all night over a Champaign [sic] well Cultivated Country, and through a great many large populous Villages, surrounded with Walls, and apparently well buiLt. —
Tuesday 2d. June — We passed the great Town of Hamadan in the middle of the Night - and which is now about 9 miles in our Rear. — The Town of Hamadan is situated in a fine extensive Fertile Plain, near the foot of the Alwand Mountains – now covered with Snow down a great way from their tops, being the same we crossed yesterday morning. —
Thursday 4th. June 1807!
Friday 5th. June — At 6.P.M. Hassan Khan Ganjy, a messenger from His Majesty The King of Persia, attended by a small Guard and several Servants, arrived in our little Camp, and delivered me a Letter from the King's Vizier or Prime Minister, Mahomed Hussein Khan full of Compliments and requiring myself & Companions to repair to the King's presence at Tiran, or Casbeen, which ever of these two Cities the Court may happen to be at, at the time of our Passing; and signifying that Hassan Khan was commanded to conduct us with every mark of honor and respect, at the King's own cost, to His Majesty's presence; and that afterwards we should be permitted to prosecute our Journey to Europe by the Caspian, agreeably to the request made by the British Actg. Resident at Bagdad in a Letter he lately addressed to that effect to the King's Vizier, and which had been sent on before us to Tiran by a special messenger. We were in great hopes to have obtained this permission without seeing His Majesty – or going to court; which will not only prove very expensive, but also retard our progress to the Caspian very much; we must, however, of necessity, submit with good grace to the King's Commands. — These orders, we are fully aware, proceed entirely from the mean jealousy and intrigues of the present French Ambassador at the Persian Court; tho' put upon the footing of respect and courtesy to us as British Subjects. — The Khan was very polite, and begged we would in future wear our own proper English Dresses during the rest of the Journey through the Persian Dominions, and lay aside our Arab Dresses, which we had hitherto worn. — He told us he would set out with [us] early next morning, and then take his leave. —
Saturday 6th. June 1807. — At ¼ past 8.P.M. we arrived at the Town of Auveeah - putting up at a Caravansera for this Night, where we were plentifully supplied with Provisions from the Town by order of the Khan. — This day's Journey is 15 miles. — On our arrival at Auveeah, and making inquiry after him, we were all greatly alarmed to hear no tidings of Major O'Neill, whom we expected to find here. We have therefore determined to send 10 or 12 men on Horseback back at Day-break tomorrow to all the Neighbouring Towns and Villages around to look for our friend the Major, being now much alarmed for his safety, as it appears he must have gone a wrong Road or met with some fatal accident; – and with the view to learn some tidings of him, we have resolved to remain here all day tomorrow. — The good honest Charawardar himself has Volunteered to be one of the Party to go to look for the Major.
Sunday 7th. June 1807.
Monday 8th. June 1807. No accounts having yet been received of the Major, we begin to be much alarmed – and very apprehensive fro his safety. —
Tuesday 9th. June 1807.
Wednesday 10th. June — We were lodged here in the Governor's House, and were very well entertained. The Governor is the son of the late Vizier – whom we saw – his Eyes having been plucked out! At Khaulah, we were informed that the King, or Sha, having set out some days since from his Capital of Tiran on an annual Summer Progress through his very extensive Dominions, is now, with his Court and a great part of his Army, within two days march of Casbeen; where he is expected to arrive the Day after tomorrow on his way to Sultania, at which last place he is to remain for some time. — N.B. Tiran is 3 days Journey to the S. East of Casbeen, and Sultania is as many to the N. West of it. — It is very fortunate for us that the Sha is to be so soon at Casbeen, as we shall thereby be saved the trouble of going to Tiran.
Thursday 11th. June — The Khan was very anxious to lodge us within the Town of Casbeen; but after we had taken a look at the inside of it, which was very filthy, we preferred Encamping outside; which we did accordingly close to the town; – the Khan and his Retinue doing the same. — Not a word yet of the Major! —
Friday 12th. June 1807! — On the King's approach, our friend Hassan Khan set out to meet him immediately. — At 9,O'Clock at Night, our friend Hassan Khan came to us with a very civil message from the Vizier requesting to see us immediately at his Quarters in Town as he was to set out early the next morning along with the King on his Progress towards Sultania. — I dressed myself immediately in my full Uniforms; and accompanied by Dr. Thomas, Lieut. Brande, and my Interpreter Minas - I proceeded along with Hassan Khan to the Vizier's Quarters in Casbeen. — We found him and the other principal grandees of the Court sitting down at their Dinner in a great Hall. We were received with great kindness and politeness by the Vizier and the other Ministers present, entering at once into familiar and friendly conversation with us. — After they had dined and dismissed their attendants, the First and Second Viziers retaining only their Secretary in the Room with them commenced a very Confidential Conversation on Political affairs, in respect to their ancient friendship with the English Nation – and the late overtures made by the French Ambassador now at this Court to the King of Persia to break with it, and form a firm and strict alliance with France. — That they have resisted all his importunity to this effect, being determined to remain faithful to their alliance and Engagements with their good friends the English. — that they wish to be at Peace with Russia through the mediation and good offices of the Kingof England; and that with view the King of Persia means to charge me with a Letter for our Gracious Sovereign – and the Vizier himself with another for the British Minister on affairs connected with both Governments. — That this being the wish and intention of the Sha and the Vizier, they are desirous that I should accompany the Court two or three days Journey hence to give time to prepare their Dispatches for England – that I should accordingly move with the Court tomorrow morning – and that in 3 or 4 days they would dispatch myself and my travelling Companions, attended by a most respectable Escort, direct to Lankaran on the Caspian – where we would find shipping ready to conduct us to Astracan. — I did not fail to make a suitable acknowledgement for the very high honor thus intended to be done me by the Sha and Vizier in charging me with their Dispatches for our good King and the British Ministry. — I begged, however, to be excused moving along with the Court tomorrow – as I wished to remain another day in hopes of our missing friend Major O'Neill coming up with us here; assuring the Vizier that I should not fail to follow the court in a couple of days more at farthest. — The Vizier approved of my intention – and we then took leave after a very interesting Confidential Conversation of upwards of two hours – it being past 12,O'Clock at Night before we took leave. — I find there are no less than three Frenchmen now at the Persian Court employed in Diplomatic Capacities – namely – Monsrs. De Flans, Andréa, and Jewanneau, the two last being several months – but the former only about two months with it. — Their influence here seem now rather upon the decline – and they are about to take their departure for France ! —
Saturday 13th. June — At 5.P.M. Meerope Khan Affshar, the Governor of Casbeen, attended by a very numerous Retinue, came to pay us a formal Complimentary Visit in our little Camp; having sent us a Present of Fruit and sweet meats some hours before. — He now told us that he was commanded by the King his master to wait upon us – and to pay us every honor and respect in his power – and to provide us with whatever we wanted. — He importuned us very much to go to reside at his House in Town, and to allow him to entertain us there for three days! — This we declined doing – but were at length forced to yield to his earnest entreaties of remaining here tomorrow and dining with him at the Government House in Town. — Between 5 and 6,O'Clock, when the Governor of Casbeen was about taking his leave of us, we were all most agreeably surprised and delighted with the arrival of our long missing friend Major O'Neill, and the good Charawadar Mahomed; who after a diligent laborious search all over the Country was at length so fortunate as to find him out – and delivered our poor friend from his vile Captivity – Slavery – and most probably Death also! — The Major's history since his straying from the Caravan eight days ago is most piteous and melancholy to a degree. — He fell in on the Evening of the day he parted from us with a wild Curd Banditti in the Hills, who robbed him of his Horse and everything else he had about him, including his Clothes, stripping him naked to the Skin, and in that forlorn condition left him to his fate in the Mountains where they met him. — He fell in the day following with some inhuman Wretches who beat him most cruelly; – and after having dragged him to their Village, made him work there as a Slave for 3 days, treating all the time with the greatest cruelty and every mark of indignity and insult, until the good Charawardar found him out most providentially – and delivered him from his horrid cruel Captivity! — The Major's health, however, has not suffered, and he will be able to move on with us again as well as ever, after resting here all day tomorrow. — Thus our apprehensions respecting our poor lost friend, are at length happily relieved; – but little did we think his sufferings were so great! —
Sunday 14th. June 1807. — A Guard of honor of 200 men came for us at 7,O'Clock to go to Dinner, and we did not return till 12,O'Clock.
Monday 15th. June 1807.
Tuesday 16th. June —
Wednesday 17th. June — At ½ past 2.P.M. Hassan Khan received a Letter Pr. Express from the Vizier to desire we might repair immediately to the King's Camp near the Town of Sangalla. At 5.P.M. Set out from Abba, and at 10 at Night arrived in the King's Camp disce. 15 miles. — We found an elegant large Tent belonging to the Vizier ready pitched for our reception close to the Kaunaute enclosing the King's Tents; and which we were requested to occupy, and where we were immediately served with an excellent Supper from the King's own Kitchen! — The Vizier's principal Secretary was sent to wait on us with the Vizier's Compliments, and to welcome us to the King's Camp. —
Thursday 18th. June 1807. We had an elegant Dinner sent us in the Evening from the King's Kitchen the same as last night. — At 9,O'Clock the Vizier's principal Secretary waited on me with a Present of Persian Sword from the Vizier himself - and a Bag of 2000 Piastres from the King to defray my Expences to England. — I accepted the first, but returned the latter as entirely incompatible with my honor and ideas of propriety. Several messages passed on this Subject, and I was repeatedly importuned to accept the money - but which I persisted in positively refusing. — At length they gave up the point, and the King sent me a Present of a very handsome Persian Scymitar [sic] – which I most readily accepted as an honorable testimony of his Majesty's friendship and regard. — At 11,O'Clock I was sent for by the two Viziers to their own State Tent, where I found them sitting with two more of the King's principal Counsellors. — Here I had a very long Conversation with these ministers on the object of the Letters I am to be charged with to the British Court - and urging my returning with the King's answer to them in the Capacity of Ambassador to the Persian Court; which I promised to do should it be the pleasure of my gracious King to do so. — They kept me with them for upwards of two hours – and then delivered the Letters above alluded to, with many compliments on my taking my leave. —
Friday 19th. June 1807. We were very tired after so long a ride, and had not eat [sic] a single morsel of any thing since Dining yesterday; – and it was too late to get any thing here this Night. — We therefore took a sleep for our Supper – fasting till next morning. —
Saturday 20th. June 1807. We set out at 10.O'Clock, and after travelling in a N. East direction for two hours from Orkande, crossed a very large deep rapid River - barely fordable. — At 3.P.M. Passed through the beautiful Village of Manjeel, full of Olive Trees. About half a mile from the Village of Manjeel, crossed the large rapid River Gurneelasan [?] running in an East and N. East direction, over a very fine Bridge of Seven Arches, with Seven Galleries over the Seven Piers to serve as a Caravansara. The Scenery here is very grand and beautiful — the Bridge across the River joining two immense stupendous mountains between which the Gurneelasan flows most majestically. — the Road is on the Left Bank of the River - and is cut out of the solid Rock along the winding Declivity of the Mountain, with most terrific Craggy Precipices both above and below the Road, which is barely broad enough to admit of one Horse passing at a time along it. — The rest of our day's Journey was on the kind of Road along the River, which winds and runs for many miles in this deep Gully between immense mountains —; the Scenery the whole of the way being most Picturesque and beautiful. At 5.P.M. arrived and halted at the Village Flainie [?] on the Left Bank of the River Gurneelasan close to which we Encamped for this Night; disce. from last Stage being 15 miles. —
Sunday 21st. June 1807.
Monday 22d. June 1807. — At ½ past 3.P.M. arrived at the Village of Shauharajee where we halted and Encamped disce. from last stage 20 miles. This Village lies in the Province of Gillan, which produces immense quantities of Silk, the whole Country here being covered with Mulberry Plantations for the Silk Worm. — The Depy. Governor of Gillan had Tents ready Pitched for our accommodation at the Village, and soon after our arrival there, waited on us in Person by order of the Shaw [sic] to supply all our wants, which he did in a very civil manner. — He also was so good as to accompany us to one of the Silk Plantations in this neighbourhood, where we saw the whole process of making the raw silk from beginning to end, having first seen prodigious quantities of worms feeding on the Mulberry previous to their forming the Husk or Egg that encloses them and from which the Silk is drawn after being immersed in boiling water which kills the Insect.
Tuesday 23d. June —7.
Wednesday 24th. June 1807. At 8.P.M. we repaired again to the Governor's to Dinner and were elegantly entertained. He had his Troops under arms both in the morning and in the Evening to receive us, and had his Garden finely illuminated at Night. — We staid with the Governor and his Grandees till 11,O'Clock – and then took our leave of them. —
Thursday 25th. June 1807. We landed at the small Town of Anseley situated at the Southern extremity of the Caspian, at 5.P.M.; and were conducted by some of the principal men of the place to a clean neat House prepared for our reception, the Streets and Road thither being lined with a great number of Troops. — Fruit and and other Refreshments were laid before us as soon as we had reached the House, and very soon afterwards the Governor came to pay us his Compliments and offer us his services. — The Governor informed us that he had prepared two Persian Vessels for our accommodation and conveyance to Baku, agreeable to the orders he had received from the King; there being no Russian Vessels now here to carry us direct to Astracan. — But told us to our great mortification that this is the most unfavorable Season for making a quick Passage to Astracan across the Caspian, that the Wind now blowing strong at N.W. and which had prevailed for 15 days past, was directly against us, and that he therefore feared we should be obliged to proceed in a small Boat along the Coast; – it being impossible for any of the larger Persian Vessels to work up against the Wind. — We therefore requested of the Governor to order a small Boat to be fitted up for conveying us to Lankaran or Baku in case the Wind did not change in the course of 24 Hours more. — This the Governor promised to do, and then took his leave of us. As soon as the Governor had left us, we walked out to the Beach to feast our Eyes with the sight of the Caspian, and had a fine extensive view of this noble inland Body of Salt Water. The Town of Anseley is built close to the Beach, and the Sea flows in past it into the Bason [sic] through which we have passed today through a small channel or Gut about a quarter of a mile broad; these being a small Town on the opposite Point to that of Anseley, and which is called Kallian. Our Journey today by Land and Water is about 15 miles, having come at least 9 miles by the latter. We had a most excellent Dinner sent to us by the Governor soon after we had returned from our walk. —
Friday 26th. June —
Saturday 27th. June 1807. At Anseley we also paid off and discharged our remaining Bagdad Servants; – so that we have now only my Boy George to wait upon us all as well as to Cook for us during our Voyage hence to Astracan. — As the wind blew directly onto the Harbour of Anseley and occasioned a great Surf on the Bar, we did not attempt to cross it, but proceeded up the Back-water of Anseley Bason [sic] to the usual Carrying place from thence to the Caspian. — Here we arrived at 2.P.M.; and some men having been collected from the adjoining Villages, the Boat and our Baggage were carried across a small Neck of Land, about Sixty Yards broad, from the Lake or Back-water to the Sea. This proved a tedious operation and detained us above three Hours at the Carrying Place. — The Boat however being then fairly launched into the Caspian, we reimbarked [sic] and commenced our Coasting Voyage on that noble Sea. — About Sunset the Wind shifted a little in our favor, and we got tolerably well on the rest of the Night by sailing and rowing. —
Sunday 28th. June
Monday 29th. June — At 6 a.m. arrived at the island of Sarrey, belonging to the Russians, and where a small Naval Depôt and a Vessel of War always stationed. At this time the Wolga [Volga] Armed Brig, commanded by Capt. Lieut. Woraxin [Voraksin] was stationed here for the protection of the Russian Trade in this part of the Caspian. — As we were obliged to pass close to the Wolga Brig, we went on board of her to pay our compliments to her Commander and to inquire after Europe News. — We were very politely and kindly received by Captain Woraxin, who made a point of our staying to Breakfast with him. — But as neither himself nor any of his officers could speak either English or French, we were unable to obtain any Europe News from them. — We staid with them however till 9, O'Clock, when we took our leave and set our again on our Voyage.
Tuesday 30th. June — At Day-break found ourselves among a Cluster of small Islands, covered with all sorts of Wild Fowl, and large Flocks of Pelicans swimming near them. — We landed on one of those Islands almost entirely covered with young Gulls and Cormorants; and were almost stunned with the noise made by the old ones with the view to protect them on our approach; but we did not molest them, and very soon quitted their Asylum. — At 6. a.m. we saw a Russian Frigate about six miles to windward of us, and steering nearly the same course as we are doing. — At 8. P.M. After a short and tolerably pleasant Voyage of three days and a half from Anseley, [Enzeli] we arrived and anchored at the Russian Town of Baku, – or Baka distant 180 British miles from Anseley in a Northern direction. — We landed, and waited immediately on the Commandant of the Garrison, Major Livitzkie [Livitskii] to report our arrival and our motive for coming in here – namely – to procure a Passage on some Russian Vessel to Astracan [Astrakhan]. The Major could neither speak English or French; and none of us could speak a word of Russian; so we were mutually at a loss until he sent for one of his officers who spoke French to interpret for us. — This Gentleman's name was Lieut. Tokareff [Tokarev], and through him we made known our wishes to the Commandant. — He referred us to the Commander-in-Chief of the Troops and present acting Govr. of Baku – Major General Goorieff [Gur'ev] –; intimating at the same time that it was then too late to call upon him this Night and recommended our waiting upon him in the morning. Lieut. Tokareff conducted us to the House of Lieut. Ushinkzie [Ushinskii] of the Russian Navy now on Duty on shore at the Naval Hospital, and who speaks a little English. This Gentleman received us in the most kind and friendly manner possible, and pressed us in the kindest way to live with him during our stay at Baku. — We accordingly availed ourselves of his very friendly invitation, and took our Quarters with him, having our Baggage to be landed and brought to his House. — Lt. Ushinkzie introduced us to his friend Mr. Bozo, now living with him as his Guest, and lately a Captain in the Russian Navy; but who having retired some time since on Half Pay, is now become a Merchant, and has several Vessels trading between this and the Port of Astracan, which is his proper place of residence. This Gentleman gives us the agreeable intelligence that a Vessel belonging to him will sail hence for Astracan in the course of two or three days, and that he will be very happy to give us a Passage on her thither. — This was very gratifying news, the more especially as we find we can get no Vessel or Boat to hire here to carry us to Astracan. But to counterbalance this agreeable news we are informed - to our infinite sorrow and regret that we shall have to serve Quarantine at Astracan on account of an Epidemical Fever now existing there - and a late appearance of the Plague in Georgia on the Russian Boundary Line with Turkey in that Quarter. — The extent of the Quarantine we shall have to serve at Astracan does not appear to be precisely known at Baku; some saying it will be Fifty days, some twenty five days, and others with equal confidence asserting it will not exceed twelve days! – but even the least of the three Periods will be a cruel and most mortifying delay to us, who are so very anxious to arrive soon in our own Native Country. — To me in particular this delay will prove a most severe and afflicting mortification; but I fear it is unavoidable – and I must bear the evil with the best Philosophy I can. —
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