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DANIELL, William (1769-1837)
View of Ben More, from above Ulva House

View of Ben More, from Ulva

© National Library of Scotland.
William Daniell image supplied by the National Library of Scotland for use in the LEMA Project.

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[Plate 39]

Ulva House

"...From Iona the voyage was resumed to the isle of Ulva, situated at the entrance of Loch-na-gal. Its position is somewhat remarkable, as may be observed on reference to the annexed VIEW OF BENMORE FROM ABOVE ULVA HOUSE. The mountain of Benmore, the highest in the adjacent island of Mull, appears to rise from its shore, in one uninterrupted sweep from the base to the summit, forming the principal feature in a range of highlands which seem stupendous when the eye measures them by the scale of the mansion on the isle below. Ulva House is the country residence of Sir Reginald Macdonald, whose seignorial appellation is Staffa. He is the proprietor of the island of that name, as well as of Ulva, Inchkenneth, and some islets in this vicinity, which are principally occupied as pasturage for black cattle and sheep. It would be a superfluous compliment to say, that his hospitality is truly worthy of his rank, but the recollection of it brings to mind many pleasing associations which should not be tacitly dismissed. On every hand were seen the effects of those agricultural improvements which Sir Reginald has carried on with so much spirit and activity; and at this period, which was the season of the hay-harvest, they appeared to peculiar advantage. A stranger entering suddenly upon such a scene, prepossessed with an idea of that rugged barrenness by which Ulva was formerly characterised, could not but survey it with a feeling the very converse of disappointment, and not definable by the common antithesis of an agreeable surprise. To heighten the gratification thus produced, here is a garden which, by the variety and richness of its products, might vie with those of a more favoured clime, and which proves that even in the Hebrides the vows paid to Flora are not ungraciously requited. In bringing it to its present prosperous state of culture, the proprietor doubtless encountered many prejudices, and was greeted with many desponding expostulations: but it is to be presumed, that an example so eminently successful will excite a general spirit of emulation among his neighbours, and will be imitated wherever it is practicable. The blooming appearance of this place forms a delightful contrast with the bleak aspect of the mountains within view. The traces of tillage on a spot surrounded by so much sterility, interest us like the first faint tinge of returning health on a countenance long wasted by sickness or famine.

In the summer months the isle is seldom destitute of visitors. It commands a very grand view of the mountain scenery which bounds Loch-na-gal, and is the most convenient place of embarkation for those who wish to extend their excursion to Staffa...

...The highlanders are principally farmers, herdsmen, and fishers. On various parts of the coast the operation of kelp-burning is carried out to a considerable extent. The fishing-grounds in its vicinity are said to be very productive. The circumference of Ulva is rather more than two miles. On its western side is the islet of Gometra, which has two good harbour for small craft, one facing the south, the other the north. In the strait which divides Ulva from Mull, there is a good anchorage for coasting vessels..."

Source: Extract from DANIELL, William. A Voyage Round Great Britain [1813-1823].

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