August 1807

Sunday 2d. Augt. 1807.
My patience being now almost exhausted in consequence of our cruel detention here and not receiving any answer to our Letters to the Governor of Astracan; I this morning addressed a Note to the Armenian Arch-Bishop Ephraime residing there, enclosing him the Letters of Introduction I brought for him from the Armenian Bishop at Bagdad; and requesting of him to use his interest and good offices with the Governor to get part of the term of our Quarantine remitted - and to have permission to prosecute our journey to England.

Memorandum !
The distance from Baku by Sea to Sedlistoff is 420 British miles; the length of the Caspian Sea from Anseley, the Southern extremity, to Sedlistoff, in the great mouth of the River Wolga, being not less than 600 miles or 10 Degrees of Latitude: the Town of Anseley (or Southern Extremity) being in about 37°, and the great mouth of the Wolga, which is the Northern extremity of it, being in about 47° North Latitude.

The water of the Caspian is not near so salty as that of the Ocean, and is only brackish near the shore, especially near the mouths of the great Rivers that fall into it where it is almost quite fresh and drinkable. — At the distance of several Leagues from the mouth of the Wolga, we drank and used the water of the Caspian and found it perfectly fresh.

There is very little or no Tide in the Caspian, it never rising higher at any time than three Feet, and even this rise is only partial, being occasioned by a long continuance of blowing weather, and not influenced by the Moon.

This fine Sea abounds in innumerable quantities of various kinds of Fish; particularly very large Sturgeon, of which immense Quantities are caught and cured for exportation. But the Great Fish, called the Baluiga, is the most remarkable species caught in the Caspian, it being of an immense Size, often weighing 1500 and 2000 Pounds weight, and producing 400 Pounds of Roe - or Cauviar - which is carefully cured for use, and then becomes a great and valuable article of Exportation.

N.B. The Caspian Sea is between 150 and 180 miles broad from East to West. —

Friday 7th. Augt. 1807.
No answer having been received to any of our applications to the Governor of Astracan, I this day addressed a Letter to him in my own name, most earnestly soliciting him to allow us to prosecute our Journey the moment the prescribed period of our Quarantine expires, which it will on Thursday morning next, the 13th. Instant, to be then permitted to proceed direct from hence to Salanka [Zelenga] without touching at Astracan at all,to grant us the necessary Passports,and to issue his orders for our being supplied with Carriages and Horses from the former place to Petersburg. —

As I have resolved for the sake of greater expedition to part company with my present companions at Salanka, and to travel alone from thence to Petersburg, I have requested of the Governor to furnish me with separate Passports, and to order the necessary Post Horses for myself and Servant.

Monday 10th. Augt. 1807 —
We dined this day with the Inspector at his own House, and had the pleasure to be informed that he had received Instructions from the Governor of Astracan to release us from Quarantine in two days more. —

Tuesday 11th. Augt. —
We dined again with Mr. Prei, the Inspector, this day - and in the Evening accompanied in his Boat to a neighbouring Island, to drink Tea and walk in his Garden there, which is a very fine one and full of Fruit. —

Wednesday 12th. Augt. !
Immediately after Breakfast this day the Inspector waited on us to inform us that we were now discharged from Quarantine here, and that we might proceed in the Evening up the Wolga direct for Salanka without touching at all at Astracan, adding that he had ordered his own Barge, with one of his Assistants in it, to be got ready to convey us thither, and that we must also dine with him today - which of course we readily agreed to do, since the necessary Papers for our final release could not be got ready till late in the Evening. —

Having settled our little affairs at the Quarantine House, and sent our Baggage on board the Boat, we quitted our Quarters on Quarantine Island with infinite pleasure at 10,O'Clock this morning, and crossed over to the Inspector's House, which is situated on a small contiguous Island to ours - and which is called Sedlistoff -; the Quarantine in the mouth of the Wolga taking the name thereof. —

At 8. P.M. after spending a very pleasant day with the Inspector and Doctor Pignon, we embarked on board our Boat, and immediately took our departure from Sedlistoff; Mr. Prei and the Doctor accompanying us in another Boat, and giving us convoy for about six miles up the Wolga. — They then took leave of us, and left us to prosecute our Journey accompanied by Mr. Prei's first assistant for our Guide and Conductor.

We are under very great obligation to the worthy good Mr. Prei for his hospitality, great kindness, and attention since our arrival here, having all the time supplied us with every thing we wanted for our Table gratis! — He would accept of no remuneration whatever, and we could therefore only return him our best thanks for all his kindness.

Thursday 13th. Augt. 1807.
The Wind being against us, we continued rowing up Wolga all night. — At 6 a.m. we halted to Breakfast at Seblotz-Andrewich, a Fishing Village on the Left Bank of the River; and which is reckoned nearly half way to Astracan. —

Friday 14th. Augt. —
The Wind continued foul all day yesterday and all last night, and we consequently made but slow progress rowing. — At Day-break we were in sight of the large and ancient City of Astracan, in Little Tartary, and beautifully situated on the Left Bank of the River Wolga. — At 7 a.m. we passed the City of Astracan, eaving it on our right, and proceeding up the River to the Village & Quarantine of Salanka, where we arrived and landed with our Baggage at 8,O'Clock this morning. — We were received on going on shore by the Inspector of the Quarantine here, who conducted us to the Quarters allotted for us, and reported our arrival immediately to the Governor of Astracan; whose orders he must receive respecting us previous to our final departure from hence for Moscow! —

At 10. P.M. the Governor sent me my Passports, and promised to permit me to depart tomorrow morning.

Memorandum!
The distance from Sedlistoff to Astracan - or Salanka - by the River Wolga, is 80 Russian Versts, or about 48 British miles. —

Saturday 15th. Augt. 1807 ! —
The Governor has not fulfilled his promise of allowing me to take my departure this day, which is a severe disappointment to me. — I am however assured that I shall be permitted to depart tomorrow morning. —

Sunday 16th. Augt. —
Early this morning the Inspector of the Quarantine at Salanka waited on me to deliver me a Clean Bill of Health, and to announce the Governor's permission for my departure, accompanied with an Order for Carriages and Horses. —

I took a hasty Breakfast with my 3 old Travelling friends, and having bid them adieu, I set out from Salanka at 9,O'Clock this morning on my Journey; myself in one Kabeetka [Kibitka] with 3 Horses, and my Servant George and Baggage in a separate Kabeetka with the same number of Horses, it being my intention to Travel both Day and Night with as much celerity as possible all the way from hence to Petersburg, which is a distance 2140 Russian Versts or 1250 British miles; and I am hopeful I shall be able to reach that Capital in 12 days from the time of my setting out from Salanka, tho the usual time taken for performing this long Journey is from 18 to 20 Days! —

The Country through which I travelled all this day from Salanka was flat, sandy, and very barren - no Cultivation, and only here and there a few Scattered Kalmuck [Kalmyk] Tartar Villages -; near some of which, however, I saw large Droves of Horses, and numerous Herds of Black Cattle. —The Road, leading along the Right Bank of the Wolga, was generally bad, being deep heavy Sand. —

Near the Bank of the River, I saw innumerable Quantities of all kinds of Game. —

Monday 17th. Augt. —
The Country I travelled through this day was pretty much the same as that of yesterday. —

Tuesday 18th. Augt. 1807.—
I travelled through a well Cultivated Country this morning, and the Roads were better, still leading along the Right Bank of the Wolga. —

I stopped to Breakfast this forenoon at a very good Inn at the Village of Sarepta or Sareptin, which is entirely a German Colony. — I was visited by Mr. Jno. Wigande, [?] the Head Administrator of this pretty little well built Town, who gave a full account of its origin and history.

From Sareptin, I passed on to Saritzin, [Tsaritsin] which is a small Fortified Russian Town, situated on the Right Bank of the Wolga - and which here forms the Boundary between Asia and Europe, Saritzin, being in the latter, but soon after it passes the town of Saritzin, the Wolga takes a more Easterly direction and is no longer seen from the Road. —

At Saritzin, a regular Quarantine has lately been established, and here, I was detained for four hours to examine my Papers and to fumigate my Baggage.

Wednesday 19th. Augt. 1807.
I am now travelling in the Country of the wild Don Cossacks, which I entered at the first stage after leaving Saritzin, last Night.

At 6. a.m. about an hour after leaving the Post House of Kolodesnaya, I had a fine view of the great River Don, four miles distant from me to my Left - my course being at this time nearly North. — The Distance between the great Rivers Wolga and Don at this place cannot exceed Fifty British miles! I travelled the greater part of this day through a very pretty variegated Country of Hills and dales, abounding in Corn and Hay. — This is the middle of their Harvest, and the People are all busy reaping and mowing. — Very few Villages however are to be seen near the Road. —

Thursday 20th. Augt. —
The Country during this day's Journey was much the same as yesterday - only a little more hilly - but still abounding in extensive Fields of Corn and Grass. In the Evening passed through the Town of Novochopersk, [Novokhopersk] very romantically and beautifully situated on a Hill, at the foot of which runs a very fine large River. — The Country of the Don Cossacks ends here.

Friday 21st. Augt.
The Country through which I travelled all this day was highly cultivated - exhibiting a most plentiful Harvest. —

In the afternoon I passed through the large Town of Tamboff [Tambov], the Capital of a Province; full of fine Churches, but the other buildings mean. —

Saturday 22nd. Augt. 1807.
Whilst I was waiting early this morning to change Horses at the Post House at the Village of Cheremushka, I was visited by a Countryman Mr. Robt. Mc.Kenzie all the way from Edinburgh, who is settled here as an Overseer on the Estate of a rich Russian General. —

The Country through which I passed all this day was rich and well cultivated; abounding in Corn and Cattle.

The Roads also now improve every day for Travelling. —

Sunday 23rd. Augt. 1807.
I passed early this morning through the large town of Rasain, [Riazan'] the Capital of a Province, and the most regular and by far the best built Town I have yet seen in Russia. —The Country during this day's Journey was also very fine. In the afternoon I halted for half an hour at the little Town of Saraixm [Zaraisk] to Drink Tea with some Russian Militia officers who are Quartered here at present. —

At 8 P.M. Crossed the River in a Boat into the Province of Kolomna. — On my landing from the Boat, I was met by some Police officers, who, after examining my Papers, informed me to my great astonishment and severe mortification - that I must perform Quarantine at the Town of Kolomna, agreeably to recent orders received here on that head from Petersburg; — and at all events that I could not be permitted to proceed a single step beyond the Town of Kolomna, until the pleasure of the Govr. General of Moscow should be known respecting me after perusing my Papers, which would be sent to him tomorrow by the Governor of Kolomna. —

I did not fail to exclaim most bitterly and remonstrate in the strongest manner against this cruel and very unjust detention - but all I could say availed nothing - and I was forced to submit to my hard fate. — I was then conducted to Town by the officers of the Police, and arrived at One of the Outer Gates of it about 11,O'Clock at Night. —Here I was left Guarded by two Drunken Russian Soldiers all Night, and slept in my own Kabeetka - there being no Quarters provided for me! — The officers of Police carried my Papers to the Governor after leaving in the above pleasant state!

Monday 24th. Augt. —
I was removed from the Gates of the City this morning about 10,O'Clock, into Horse Barracks, close to a Burying Ground, within the Lines which surround the Town. —

At Noon I was visited by the Commandant of the Troops and some other Gentlemen of the Town of Kolomna, who all assured me that the Governor would send off my Papers in the course of this day to the Govr. General at Moscow, and that an answer might be expected from him respecting me in the course of 4 or 5 days hence at farthest. — They then took their leave of me.

Saturday 29th. Augt. 1807.
I have never passed a more unpleasant time than I have done for these last six days, and have felt my situation here extremely mortifying indeed, remaining all this while under the most anxious and painful suspense respecting my fate. — My apprehensions, however, were at length relieved this day about 12,O'Clock by Captn. Dashkoff [Dashkov], the Comg. Officer of the Troops at Kolomna, who called to inform me that my Passports had just arrived from Moscow, and that I had the Governor's permission to set out for that City whenever I pleased. — I accordingly ordered Carriages & Horses to be got ready immediately, but Captn. Dashkoff having made a point of my dining with him before I set out at his House in Town, I was forced to acquiesce and to defer my Journey till the Evening. —

Having dined with Captn. Dashkoff, and received back my Passports and Bill of Health, I set forwards on my Journey once more at 7,O'Clock this Evening, myself in one Kabeetka and my Boy George in another.

Sunday 30th. Augt. 1807. —
Having Travelled all Night very quick, I arrived at Day-break this morning at the Village of Lubertz within 15 Versts of the City of Moscow, which I had no doubt reaching long before Breakfast time. — But the ignorant Post Master at this Village stopt [sic] me, and told me that I must remain here until he sent my Passports to be examined at Moscow.

I was of course obliged to submit to this mortifying delay and detention as I had to all the former ones, after in vain remonstrating with and threatening to have the Post-Master most severely Punished. — I had to wait here all day, my Passports not having been returned from Moscow till Sunset this Evening. — I then again renewed my Journey and arrived at the Gates of the City of Moscow at 9,O'Clock at Night. — Here I was stopt [sic] for upwards of two Hours to have my Passports examined by the Commandant and Police Office before I could be permitted to enter the City. — About Midnight I arrived at an Inn, where I took up my Quarters for the Night, heartily tired of Russian Police.

Monday 31st. Augt. 1807.
As I was sitting at Breakfast this morning in the Inn, I was not a little surprised to see my friends Major O'Neill, Lieut. Brande and Dr. Thomas (whom I had left at Salanka on the 16th Instant) enter my Room. — They had it seems set out two days after me, and had been permitted to pass through the Town of Kolomna without being stopt or questioned, which makes my detention there the more shameful and unjust; but these Gentlemen had the good fortune to pass the River Akka [Oka] and the Town of Kolomna in the middle of the Night, when the Police officers had left their Posts and were fast asleep in their Beds. — My 3 friends had by this means got before me notwithstanding all my exertions, having arrived here two days. — We now agreed to Travel all-together as far as Petersburg, and to set out this Evening or very early tomorrow morning. — As soon as I had Breakfasted, I went out to call on the Governor-Genl. of Moscow, Genl. Tutelmin; the Commdt. of the Troops Genl. Von Else and on the Genl. of Police in order to expedite the registering of my Passports and obtaining their permission to prosecute my Journey again this Evening. — I afterwards [called] on Messrs. Thos. Rossan, Hawes & Co., English Merchants at Moscow to get some money Exchanged, and to leave a memorandum with them respecting some articles of Baggage that I had lost on the Road, with the view of their recovering them if possible. — These Gentlemen were very kind and attentive and very obligingly complied with all my little requests.

The common Post Kabeetka I had hitherto travelled in, being vile horrid uneasy things, I found it necessary to make a Purchase of a new one here for myself of a better sort, and for which I paid 75 Rubles. — It was however a very comfortable conveyance in comparison to the abominable machines I had hitherto been used to.

The rest of this day I spent in riding through and seeing as much of this ancient grand City as possible, but as my time did not admit of my seeing a twentieth part of it, I cannot attempt to give any description of it. It is certainly, however, a most elegant City, and one of the largest in the World.

My Travelling Companions dined with me at the Inn I put up at, and we would have set out immediately after Dinner, but were not able to get our Passports from the Police office till a late hour at Night; - we were therefore forced to defer our Journey till the morning. —

Provenance
Lachlan Macquarie. Journal 18 March 1807 - 17 October 1807.
Original mss. held in the Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Reference: A771 pp.154-189 [Microfilm: CY Reel 300 Frames #584-#619].