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1804

July

July 1.
Sunday! — I paid a very early visit as usual to my Uncle, whom I found in great pain and very restless, having had a very bad Night. — His Pulse is now very low, and he has other apparent signs of a speedy dissolution. — Indeed both the Doctors say that it is almost impossible he can live above two or three days, unless he should have a favorable turn – which they have not the smallest hope of. — He has, however, still his recollection, knows all the People about him, and still retains the perfect use of all his faculties. — soon after Breakfast he desired his two Sons Murdoch and John to be sent in to him, which was accordingly done. They remained with him for a Couple of Hours, sitting on his Bed–side, with their hands locked in his, but he was not able to speak much to them. — I remained in the Room for a few minutes after they came in; but I was so much affected at this mournful Scene, that I was soon obliged to quit this Apartment of distress. —

My Indian Boy George (who has lived at Lochbuy ever since he came home from Egypt with my Brother Charles) is a great favorite with my poor Uncle, and has been particularly so since his illness; he therefore has been very much about him of late, and always sits with him when Mrs. Maclaine is obliged to quit the Room.

This poor Boy is very much attached to my Uncle and his Family, and he is a great favorite with them all in return. — He was poor fellow very much overjoyed at seeing me once more. —

July 2.
Monday! — I paid an early morning Visit as usual to my Uncle, and found him very ill and restless – and in extreme pain. — He knew me however perfectly, took hold of my hand, and Squeezed it repeatedly, but could only speak in broken sentences to me hardly to be understood. — Mrs. Maclaine is now the only one that can understand exactly what he says – his Voice being quite sunk, and so low scarcely to be heard. — we all now dread the worst every moment, and the whole Family are consequently in the deepest possible distress and affliction; and my Broyr. Charles not being yet arrived from Ireland, adds not a little to the distress of every one, in consequence of his Uncle having expressed so very eager a desire to see him; and I greatly fear he will not now overtake him alive when he comes. —

July 3.
Tuesday! — This morning at 7,O'clock my Brother Charles arrived at Lochbuy, in a Cutter from Ireland, at which we were all exceedingly rejoiced. — He came into my Room most unexpectedly when I was dressing. — I accompanied him to my Uncle's room, as soon as he had seen and saluted his Aunt. — Lochbuy knew Charles, directly, folded him in his Arms and kissed him with the greatest ardour and affection: — but alas! he could not speak to him – tho' it was very evident he wished (from his looks) very much to do so. — He nevertheless still appears to be sensible of everything that passes or is said to him. — My Brother sat the greater part of this day with his Uncle – but he is come too [late] to have any conversation with him. —

July 4.
Wednesday! — On my going in to see my Uncle this morning I found him in very great pain, and moaning piteously from his inward sufferings; which renders his situation now truly affecting and afflicting, as no medical relief can be administered to him. —

He has now lost entirely the power of Speech, but not his other faculties.

Towards the Evening he became very low, and almost insensible to every thing around him. — Late in the Evening his Pulse became very low, and about 8,O'Clock at Night he had a strange confused noise or rattle in his Throat; – which alas! are too sure Symptoms of his Dissolution being very near at hand. — My Brother and myself determined to sit with him all Night.

July 5.
Thursday!!! — I sat up with my poor dear Uncle till half past 1,O'Clock this morning, when finding myself overcome with Sleep, I went to take a couple of hours repose; leaving Doctor Donald Maclaine and my Brother Charles sitting up with him. — But I was awoke by my Brother a few minutes before Three OClock, who came to tell me that our beloved good Uncle had just expired – having Breathed his last without pain or struggle at a Quarter before 3,O'Clock.

I instantly got up and went into the Room of the deceased, and found my dear Uncle's Body still quite warm – but life was fled!

Mrs. Maclaine came to the Room–Door at 3,O'Clock, and I had the melancholy office of communicating to her the mournful tidings, which she bore with becoming Fortitude. —

The rest of this mournful day was employed in removing the Corpse of the deceased to another Room and laying it properly out; — in Sealing up his Papers and Repository; in writing Invitations to the Friends of the Family to attend the Funeral, which is appointed to take place on Tuesday the 10th. Inst.; and in Commissionings Mournings for the Family and sundry necessary articles for the Funeral from Oban. —

As I cannot be of any further use in this House of Sorrow at present, and as I leave a sufficient number of Friends here to comfort this afflicted Family; I mean to avail myself of the interval, between this and the Funeral, of going to visit my poor dear afflicted Mother tomorrow. —

July 6.
Friday!!! — Having Breakfasted with the Family, and communicated my intention to my Aunt (which she approved), I set out this morning from Lochbuy–House to Visit my mother at Oskamull, in Company with my old friend and Relation Mc.Quarie; who was returning to his own Family at Gribon [sic] – for two or three days, and who has agreed to come back with me to the Funeral. — We set off at 10,O'Clock on Horse–back Travelling over Maum–Antrotan, by Rossall and Kilfinichan; at both which places we stopped for a little while to visit our friends at these places respectively; and arrived at Mc.Quarie's House at Gribon [sic] at 4,O'clock in the afternoon; and where I was most kindly and warmly received by his Daughters Jean and Anne, and by his Sister in law Mrs. Christian Maclaine. — I staid [sic] to dine with Mc.Quarie and Family, as they made a point of my doing so; and at 6'O'Clock I left them to proceed to the Ferry of Ballanahaird, from whence I crossed over to Oskamull, and arrived at my Mother's House there at 7,O'Clock at Night. —

I came quite unexpectedly upon my poor dear Mother, whom and my Sister I found at home quite alone; my Brother in law Farquhar Maclaine having set out for Lochbuy early this morning. — The Scene that passed on my first introducing myself to my dear good Mother after nearly 17 Years absence, and under such peculiar circumstances of late and more recent Domestic losses and afflictions in our Family, is much easier conceived than expressed. — Suffice it to observe here that both my Mother and Sister were supremely happy at seeing me once more under their own Roof. — My poor Mother had not yet heard of her beloved Brother Lochbuy's death, but knowing before that there were little hopes of his recovery, she was in some degree prepared for the fatal tidings which I now brought her of that most mournful event. — she bore it therefore with great fortitude and resignation at first; but when her joy at so unexpectedly seeing me once more in her own House, had a little subsided, she gave way to the deepest and most poignant affliction on account of her greatly beloved Brother's death, who had ever shewn her the tenderest and most kind affectionate Brotherly attention in all her wants and distresses. — It was therefore very natural for her to be greatly grieved and afflicted for his inexpressible loss. —

By degrees however she became more calm, and I did all I could to soothe and comfort her; and at length I succeeded with the assistance of good Sister Betty to get her to talk very sensibly and rationally on the mournful event that had taken place; and by degrees introduced more pleasing subjects. I was beyond measure rejoiced to find my dear Mother (–who must now be bordering on Eighty Years of age! –) in full possession of all her Senses and faculties as much as ever, only that her Eye–Sight begins now too fail her a little; but in all other respects she is perfectly well. —

I passed the rest of this Evening till Bed–time in most pleasing and interesting Conversation with my beloved Mother and sister on our Domestic and Family Affairs; giving them a brief Sketch of my own adventures in India, and the fortunate and unfortunate turns of my life in that Country, and they were deeply affected with certain parts of the latter! —

My Brother Charles – and my Sister Betty's Sons also occupied much of our Conversation.

July 7.
Saturday! — After Breakfasting this morning with my Mother and Sister, I crossed over to Ulva to Visit Mrs. Macdonald of Staff and the Ladies of that Family, Mr. Macdonald of Staffa (now the Proprietor of Ulva, the Ancient Estate of the Mc.Quarries) being at present in the Low Country. — I took this opportunity of thanking Mrs. Macdonald for her civilities and attentions to my Mother; and having staid [sic] for about an hour with these Ladies, I returned again to Oskamull, where I spent the reminder of the day with my Mother and Sister. — On my return from Ulva, I found my old friends and relations Mr. and Mrs. Maclean of Laggan Ulva, waiting for me at my Mother's House, and who were much rejoiced to see me. — They dined and spent the day with me at my Mother's; and loaded me with thousands of thanks for getting a Commission for their Eldest Son Archibald in the 86th Regt.

July 8.
Sunday! — Having Breakfasted with my Mother and sister, I took leave of them for the present, and at 10,O'Clock crossed the Ferry from Oskamull to Gribon [sic]; and having staid [sic] there with Mc.Quarie and his Family for about an hour, my old Friend and myself set out for Lochbuy–House at half past 6,O'Clock in the Evening of the same day. — I found all the Friends there that I left at Lochbuy–House; and the afflicted Widow and her Children all in tolerably good health.

July 9.
Monday! — Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson arrived this day at Lochbuy–house from Oban, from whence they have brought all the remaining articles of Mournings for the Family, and other necessaries for the Funeral of the Deceased. —

July 10.
Tuesday! — All the relations and Friends of the Family from Lorn, Morven, and the different parts of the Island of Mull, as well as the whole of the Common Tenantry on the Estate of Lochbuy, having assembled in the course of yesterday and this morning at the ancient Family Seat of Moy; the Interment of the Remains of my late beloved Uncle took place this day between the hours of One and Two OClock in the afternoon, his Body having been deposited along with his Ancestors in the Family burying Place of "Capelle–Fuhier" at Laggan, under the Great Center Layer or Tomb–Stone within the Chapel, which was by his own particular desire. — My late Uncle's Eldest Son Murdoch and myself walked as Chief Mourners at the Head of the Corpse, and his youngest Son John and my Brother Charles at the foot of it, from the Family Mansion to the Grave. —

The Funeral was conducted with the greatest possible order and regularity; and was most respectably and numerously attended by the Principal Gentlemen of the Country, and by about 300 of the Tenantry of the Lochbuy Estate. — After the Funeral all the Commoners were hospitably entertained in the old Highland stile [sic] in an Open field adjoining to the Castle with abundance of Meat and Drink; and in the Evening all the Gentlemen who attended the Funeral sat down to a very elegant Dinner prepared for them within the Mansion.

Airds, Coll, Mc.Quarie, my Brother Charles and myself conducted the entertainment, and Presided at the different Tables, which were all laid within the Great Dining–room. — Most of the Gentlemen returned home at Night, and the rest remained at Lochbuy–House. — I forgot to mention in it's proper place that the following Relations and friends of the Deceased walked from Lochbuy–House to the Burying Ground as Pall–Bearers: Vizt.

1 Colonel Campbell of Airds
2 Colonel Maclean of Coll
3 Lachn. Mc.Quarie of Mc.Quarie Esqr.
4 Hugh Campbell of Killarden [?] Esqr.
5 Colin Campbell of Achnacroish Esqr.
6 Robt. Stewart of Achadashenaig Esqr.

July 11.
Wednesday. — The Gentlemen who had far to go, having remained with us last Night, set out for their respective Homes this morning after Breakfast – the particular Friends of the Family still remaining with us at Lochbuy. — My poor dear Aunt conducts herself with great propriety and good sense in her present afflicting circumstances – bearing her heavy loss with becoming resignation. —

She and her Sister Miss Campbell and the other Ladies dined with us today after the Strangers had gone away.

Airds, Coll, my Broyr. & myself opened the late Lochbuy's Repositories this forenoon and examined his principal Books & Papers, taking a regular Inventory of the same – as well as of all his money, in presence of Mr. Jno. Campbell Writer of Inverary, who attended us in his Individual Capacity on the occasion.

July 12.
Thursday! — Our worthy good friend Coll, Mc.Quarie, and several other particular Friends left us today for their own Homes after Breakfast. — Miss Maclaine Lochbuy accompanied her Friend Coll on a Visit to his Daughters in the Isle of Coll. —

Mr. & Mrs. Stevenson, Colonel Park, and Dr. Dond. Maclaine left us also this forenoon for Oban. — Airds still remains with us at Lochbuy, shewing every kindness to his distressed Sister and her lovely young Family, and making the necessary arrangements for their future comfort and maintenance, in conjunction with my Brother Charles and myself. —

Airds has given, on this mournful occasion, a very strong and amiable proof of his affection for his Sister by paying her every possible attention, and remaining with her as long as his Duty will allow him to do so. —

July 14.
Saturday! — Airds left us today after Breakfast on his return to join his Regt. at Edinburgh. — I accompanied him up to Lochspelve to his Boat, and took leave of him there. —

My Brother Charles & myself are the only remaining Friends now at Lochbuy House. —

July 15.
Sunday. — My poor dear Aunt Mrs. Maclaine being now tolerably Composed in her mind, and religiously resigned to her recent calamitous loss – and having also her amiable sister Miss Elizabeth Campbell still living with her to comfort and assist her with her good and sensible advice in regard to all her Domestic concerns; my Brother and myself think we may now with safety and propriety leave her for a few days to Visit our dear good Mother – and also to view and take Possession of our recently acquired Estates of the two Lots of the Lochbuy Lands we some time since respectively Purchased. For these purposes we intend setting out from Lochbuy–House tomorrow morning. —

July 16.
Monday!!! — At 6,O'Clock this morning, my Brother Charles and myself, accompanied by Mr. Dougald Mc.Tavish of Laggan, set out from Lochbuy House for Callachilly, on Horseback; and attended by my Brother's Servant James Todd; my Servt. Mr. Stewart not being yet arrived from Edinburgh. —

We went by Glenforsa, through which we had a very romantic and pleasant Ride, most of the way being on our own Grounds. — We arrived at 9,O'Clock at Pennygown (one of my Brother's Farms) at the House of Mrs. Maclaine the Widow of the late Doctor Andrew Maclaine, who had prepared an excellent Breakfast for us. —After Breakfasting with Mrs. Maclaine, we proceeded to Callachilly, one of the Farms of my Estate; and having put up our Horses at the Inn, and bespoke Dinner for a number of particular Friends whom I had invited to meet us here on this day, my Brother, Mr. Mc.Tavish and myself walked over the principal parts of the Farms of Callachilly and Kilbeg – including the Great Moss and Crofts of Salen: thus taking Personal Possession of my Estate – and which I intended at this day's meeting to name and christen "Jarvisfield," out of grateful respect and sincere affection for the beloved and revered memory of my late Angelic excellent Wife and in due Conformity with my Solemn Vow of date 31st. July 1796.

From what I have already seen of these two Farms, I am very well pleased with my Purchase; the only thing I have reason to regret being that Callachilly, on which it is my wish to build my Mansion and make my Family Seat, is under a Nineteen Years Lease to Doctor Donald Maclaine – and being thereby prevented carrying this intention into effect. — I wish if possible to Purchase the Lease from him, and have already commenced negotiating with him on this point; but all the overtures I have hitherto made to him on the subject have proved ineffectual, tho' he expresses every inclination to meet my wishes on this head. — I am the more particularly anxious to have the whole of the Farm of Callachilly at my own entire command, as it is my intention to drain and improve the Great Moss of Salen, and to build a neat Village there for Crofters and a certain number of useful Tradesmen, together with a new good Inn, a Smithy, and a Shop for Merchandize: – the Point of Salen being a most centrical and very eligible Situation in every respect for erecting a Village of this description.

I shall therefore willingly give Doctor Maclaine Five Hundred Pounds Str. on condition of his resigning this Farm, which is a great deal more than the Lease of it is worth to him. —

After a very long walk and a very minute Survey of the low grounds of the two Farms of Callachilly and Kilbeg, together with the Sea Shore and Harbour of the Former, my Brother, Mr. Mc.Tavish and myself returned to the Inn at Callachilly at 4,O'Clock in the afternoon; the Friends we had invited to meet us there beginning now to assemble.

At 6,O'Clock in the Evening the following Relations & Friends had assembled at the Inn, and sat down to a most excellent Dinner prepared for the occasion and to celebrate this day of my Brother and myself taking Possession of our respective Estates: — Vizt. —

1 Mc.Quarie of Mc.Quarie
2 Mr. Dond. Mc.Quarie (–Mc.Quarie's Son)
3 Mr. C. Campbell of Achnacroish.
4 Doctr. Donald Maclaine —
5 Mr. Hugh McLachlan of Achnacraig
6 Mr. Alexr. Campbell – Do
7 Mr. McLeod – from Morven.
8 Mr. Ross – from Ledirkle
9 Mr. Allan Mc.Laine of Scallastle
10 Mr. John Mc.Lean of Laggan Ulva
11 Mr. Dugd. Mc.Tavish of Laggan–Lochbuy.
12 Mr. Mc.Kinnon of Corryachenaich
13 Mr. Farqr. Mc.Laine of Oskamull
14 Mr. Angs. Mc.Kinnon of Rossall
15 Mr. Dond. Campbell of Ballameanach
16 Mr. Charles Mc.Quarie Mercht.
17 Mr. Dond. Mc.Quarie, Drover — ;

and my Brother Charles and myself made 19 in all at Dinner. —

After the King, the Queen, and Royal Family, and a few other Toasts had been given, I informed the Company of my principal motive for inviting them to meet me here this day: namely, to celebrate my taking Possession of my Estate; which, out of affectionate regard and respect for the highly honored and revered memory of my late beloved Wife, I now took this opportunity in their presence – of consecrating to her, by naming and christening it – "Jarvisfield": Jarvis being her Maiden Surname; – and it being with the Fortune she was so generous as to bequeath me on her–ever–to–be lamented Death – that I was enabled to Purchase the Estate in question. — It is therefore at least incumbent on me to pay this small tribute of gratitude to her beloved memory – by naming the Property, thus acquired, after her. — I then proposed that a Bumper Toast should be drank standing to the memory of my late beloved Wife – and Success to the Estate of Jarvisfield! – which was accordingly done. —

My Brother having christened his Estate "Glenforsa", a Bumper Toast was proposed –and was accordingly drank to him – and Success to his Title of Glenforsa. — It was drank standing, with Three times three by all present. —

We sat till a late hour at Table and spent a very jovial sociable and pleasant Evening, not having broke up till after 12,O'Clock at Night. — Some few of the Party went home, but most of the Gentlemen staid [sic] all Night at the Inn. —

Thus ended this happy day! —

July 17.
Tuesday! — All those Friends who slept last Night at the Inn, staid [sic] to breakfast with me there this morning, after which they all set out for their respective Homes.

Our friend Mc.Quarie, Mr. Mc.Tavish, my Brother Charles and myself, set out from Callachilly at 10,O'Clock this morning. — We called at Aross [sic] and at Achadashenaig, to visit Mr. & Mrs. Maxwell at the former, and Mr. & Mrs. Stewart at the latter. — We found both Families at Home, and staid [sic] for about half an hour with each. — We then proceeded on to Gruline (one of my principal Farms) to visit Mr. John Maclean the Tacksman of these Lands; and after sitting a little while with him and his Sister, my Brother and myself went to view the enclosed woods of Gruline, which appear to be in a thriving condition. — This Farm all–together, combined wit the agreeable circumstances of its immediate vicinity to the grand and beautiful Fresh Water Lake of Loch–Bauw and the fine Fishing river running out of it, is certainly a very romantic beautiful Spot for a Gentleman to live upon; and were it not for the beautiful and most interesting view and prospect of the noble Sound of Mull from the Farm of Callachilly, I should on every other account prefer Gruline for my place of residence — and for Building my Mansion House upon. —

After viewing the Gruline Woods, we proceeded to Knock, to call upon our good worthy Friends Mr. & Mrs. Campbell of that Place and their amiable good Family. — They were very happy to see us, and insisted upon our staying to dine with them, which we accordingly did, and got a most excellent Dinner – with a most kind and hospitable welcome and reception.

My Brother and myself set out from Knock at 5,O'Clock for Oskamull; whilst our friends Mc.Quarie and Mr. Mc.Tavish set out at the same time for their respective Homes at Gribon [sic] and Lochbuy; — Mc.Quarie having proceeded by Water to Gribon. [sic] —

On our way to Oskamull we called at Killachronan to visit Mr. and Mrs. Campbell of that Place. — Mrs. Campbell had lately gone to the Low Country; but we found Mr. Campbell and his Daughter at Home, and staid [sic] to drink Tea with them. — We then pursued our Journey to Oskamull, and arrived at our dear good Mother's House there about 8,O'Clock at Night. — She expected us, and of course was prepared for our reception, which was such as is more easy to conceive than to describe; not having seen her two Sons together for Seventeen Years past. — In short our worthy good Parent's joy on this occasion was as complete as it could possibly be under the recent heavy pressure of affliction she had sustained by the death of her most beloved only Brother. —

Our Sister Betty – who is a most amiable affectionate Creature as ever lived, participated with the most lively sensibility in this happy Family Scene, as did likewise her excellent good Husband. — We all sat up till a late hour, after Supping together, and spent a most delightful Evening. —

July 18.
Wednesday. — After Breakfast with our Mother and Sister, my Brother and myself crossed over from Port Oskamull to Ulva, to visit Mrs. Macdonald and her Daughters; her son the Laird of Staffa being from Home, we had not the pleasure of seeing him. — We staid [sic] for an hour with the Ladies, and I took this opportunity of again returning my best acknowledgments to Mrs. Macdonald for her friendship and attention to my mother.

On our return to Oskamull, we found our old friends Mr. & Mrs. Maclean of Laggan waiting to see us at our Mother's and soon afterwards our friend Mc.Quarie arrived from Gribbon [sic], being engaged to dine with us. — My Mother had prepared a most excellent Dinner for us, and we spent a very sociable pleasant day together. — Mc.Quarie returned to Gribbon [sic] in the Evening, and Mr. & Mrs. Maclean also left us after Drinking Tea. — The rest of the Evening till Bed–time, we passed in a most agreeable Family Party.

July 19.
Thursday! — We Breakfasted with our Mother, staid [sic] with her till Noon, and then set out for Callachilly, where we arrived at 3,O'Clock in the Afternoon, and ordered Dinner at the Inn, intending to stay there all Night. — We then took a long walk round the Farm, and Visited the new Crofts and different parts of Salen: – where we planned our future Scemes [sic] of draining and improving the Great Moss – and erecting a Village on that centrical and most eligible Spot, with a new good Inn &c. &c.

Hugh Mc.Kinnon from Laggan–Ulva dined with us at Callachilly. — I have promised my Mother to endeavour to procure a Commission in the Army for this worthy honest Man's Son Ranold, on account of the Father's attention to my dear good Parent, and I have this day renewed my promise to this effect to Hugh Mc.Kinnon himself. —

Doctor Donald Maclain [sic] joined us in the Evening, and supped with us at the Inn. — We talked a great deal on the Subject of his relinquishing the Lease of Callachilly for an adequate consideration, but could not agree as to the Amount. —

July 20.
Friday. — My Brother and self, accompanied by Doctor Maclaine, Set out from Callachilly after Breakfast, Called on Mrs. Maclaine of Pennygown, and afterwards on our relation Mrs. Maclaine of Scallastle, now living with her Family on the Farm of Ledirkle; Proceeded from thence to Scallastle to call on her Son Allan, who accompanied us to Achnacroish; where we had appointed Mr. Colin Campbell of that place, and some other Friends to consult upon the terms on which Doctor Maclaine should relinquish the Lease of Callachilly. — But after many warm Professions, and a variety of Proposals, nothing could be finally agreed upon – and the negotiation was at length broken off entirely; – not however before I offered the Doctor Five Hundred Pounds in ready Cash for his 19 Years Lease of Callachilly; more than which I am fully resolved never to give or offer him for it. —

We all dined with Mr. Campbell of Auchnacroish, [sic] and then parted for our respective Homes. — My Brother and myself had a very pleasant Evening's Ride from Auchnacroish [sic] through Torosay to Lochbuy–House, where we arrived at 9,O'Clock at Night; and had the pleasure to find our Aunt Mrs. Maclaine and the whole of the Family there in good health. —

July 22.
Sunday! — I accompanied my Aunt Mrs. Maclaine, her Daughter Margaret, and Miss Metcalfe, together with my Broyr. Charles, this morning immediately after Breakfast to attend the Sacrament at the Church of Creuganuir. — We went round by Sea from Lochspelve Head to the Sacrament, and returned Home in the Evening in the same manner, the weather being fair and remarkably fine all day. Charles and the two young Ladies returned home by land on Horseback.

Miss Campbell staid [sic] at Home with the younger part of the Family at Lochbuy–House. —

July 27.
Friday. — We have passed the last five days without any Visitors at Lochbuy–House. — We amuse ourselves with reading, walking and occasionally Water Parties.

Miss Campbell and the young Ladies, attended by my Brother and myself and Mr. Donald Mc.Kinnon, made a pleasant Water Party yesterday to the Great Cave at the Point of Tonteira [?]. — Miss Campbell being fond of Fishing, we sometimes go out in the Boat to enjoy that sort of amusement with the Long–Line. — This is the way we generally pass our time here at present; the recent mournful event not admitting of any one here enjoying more gay amusements during the present afflicted state of this Family. —

My excellent good Servant William Stewart arrived here from Edinburgh only two days ago, having been detained there by sickness ever since his arrival there on the 23d. of June from London, the day previous to my leaving from Edinr. for Mull. — He is now however quite recovered; and having brought on my Horses to Oban, where he has left them by my own direction; I shall now be able to execute my intended Tour to Visit my Friends in the North!

I have had this Tour all along in Contemplation; having a number of Friends and acquaintances in the Northern and Eastern Counties of Scotland to whom I have promised to Visit before I return to England; – and as Miss Campbell and my Brother Charles intend staying for a Fortnight longer at Lochbuy, I mean to Seize this favorable occasion of carrying my intention into execution while they remain to keep my poor Aunt Company. — I have offered Miss Campbell to see and conduct her safe to Edinburgh in my Carriage; but she seems disinclined to accept of my offer, tho' her two Nephews will certainly accompany me thither. —

July 28.
Saturday! — Having made all the necessary Preparations and arrangements for my tour, I set out this morning after Breakfast from Lochbuy–House, accompanied by my Servant Stewart wit ha small Portmanteau containing Clothes and Linens. — I took Boat at Lochspelve to Oban, where I arrived at 3,O'Clock in the afternoon. — I staid [sic] to dine with Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson; ordering in the mean time my Horses to be got ready at the Inn. —

At 6,O'clock, I set out on Horseback, attended by my man Stewart, from the Town of Oban on my destined Tour. — I crossed the Conel [sic] and Sheean [sic] Ferries, and had a very pleasant Evening's Ride to Airds–House; where, however, I did not arrive till 10,O'Clock at Night, when all the Family had gone to Bed, excepting one of the Servant Maids, who got me some Supper and prepared a Bed for me. — My friend Airds and his Lady had set off for the Low Country some days before my arrival, leaving Miss Campbell Lochend (Sister to Mrs. Campbell Airds) to keep House at Airds during their absence.

I did not allow the Servant Maid to awaken or disturb Miss Campbell at so late an hour of the Night; but went to Bed immediately after taking the Refreshment prepared for me.

July 29.
Sunday. — I did myself the pleasure of staying to Breakfast with Miss Campbell – and set out immediately afterwards for Fort William, having a most beautiful ride through Appin to Ballachuillish. — I slept here to dine with my old Brother officer (in the 71st. Regt. in America) Lieut. Dugald Stewart, the now Proprietor (in right of his wife) of this Place.

My friend Lieut. Stewart gave me an excellent dinner and a most hearty welcome; pressing me very much to stay a Night with him; but this could not do, from my being so limited for time. — I accordingly pursued my Journey immediately after Dinner; crossing the Ferry of Ballachuillish, from the Parish of Appin, into that of Lochabber; through which I had a very pleasant ride all the way along Loch–Linn, on a very good made Road, having a view of the wild opposite mountainous districts of Kingerloch & Ardgour. —

I arrived at Fort William about 7,O'Clock in the Evening, and put up at a very decent Inn kept by Widow Munro. — Fort William is distant from Oban 38 Miles – and about 30 from Airds–House from whence I started this morning. —

Whilst dinner was preparing for me at the Inn, I took a walk through the Town, and went into the Fort; which is a small Paltry Work, and at present Garrisoned only by a few old Invalids under the Command of Captain Cochrane; on whom I called, and he afterwards returned my visit at the Inn. — This little Fort is however beautifully situated at the mouth of the River Lochie, and Commands a fine prospect of the surrounding country. — It is also situated at the extremity of Loch–Linn. — From Fort William I had a very good distant view of the Bason [sic] now forming at the mouth of Loch–Eil, and at the western Extremity of the New Great Caledonian–Canal, lately projected by Government for opening an Inland Navigation between the Eastern and Western Seas. — There are already some Hundred men at work on this western Bason, [sic] and as many on the eastern one in the Neighbourhood of the Town of Inverness; and if this noble Plan succeeds, it must greatly improve the cultivation and commerce of the Western Highlands – and particularly the wild District of Lochabber.

After my walk, returned to the Inn to Dinner, and went early to Bed. —

July 30.
Monday. — Breakfasted at the Inn at Fort William – and set out at Ten O'Clock on my Journey — Travelling at some little distance from the foot of the immense high mountain of Ben Neviss, [sic] (in the Clefts of Rocks of which there were Snow at this time lodged in large quantities), which I leave on my Right, and the River, and Loch–Lochie on my left. —

I halted to Bait my Horse at a small Paltry Inn on the side of Loch–Lochie, and again pursued my Journey: — Passing Loch–Oigh, Invergary (– the Place of Residence of McDugald of Glengarry –) on my Left, **** at Fort Augustus at 6,O'Clock in the Evening. — Here I did intend to stay all Night, but finding the Inn full, and no good accommodation to be had there, on account of the Glengarry Fencibles being here now on Permanent Duty, I determined my Journey this day should be farther prolonged to "the General's Hut." — I therefore ordered my horses to be Baited at the Inn, and in the mean time went to take a View of Fort Augustus, and to wait on the Lieut. Governor, Colonel Berdie, [?] whom however I did not see, being at Dinner. — This is a much larger and more respectable Fort than the one last mentioned, and is situated at the Western Extremity of Loch Ness, of which it commands a most beautiful extensive Prospect. —

After taking a short refreshment at the Inn, renew my Journey at 7,O'Clock, and had a very wild dreary Ride from Fort Augustus to the General's Hut –; a poor small miserable Inn, at about 12 or 14 miles distance from Fort Augustus, on the side of Lochness – and near a place called Bileskin – and about a mile beyond the Celebrated Fall of Fryers – which I had the ill–luck of passing in the Dark. — I arrived at the General's Hut at ½ past 9 at Night, where I took up my Quarters; but got a bad Supper and a worse Bed. The whole length of my Journey this day from Fort William is 45 miles; – the last part of which was both dreary and tiresome. —

July 31.
Tuesday. — I set out from the General's Hut this morning at ½ past 7,O'Clock and after a very romantic pleasant [ride] along Lochness all the way, arrived at the Town of Inverness at ½ past 11,OClock: – disce. 18 miles from General's Hut – and 101 miles from Oban! — I put up at Ottler's [?] Inn, and soon after my arrival there The Honble. Archd. Fraser of Lovatt called upon me to invite me to dine with him this day at the Public meeting of all the Gentlemen Heritors of the Country, at which the Lord Lieutenant Sir James Grant of Grant Presides. — I accepted Lovatt's Invitation and dined with him at the Meeting, which was held at the other Inn. — I was introduced to Sir James Grant, who was in the Chair. — He paid me particular attention, and gave me a pressing invitation to pass some time with himself & his Family at Castle Grant, whither he was soon to return; but which I was obliged to decline on account of the shortness of my time and Leave of absence. I was agreeably surprised to meet at this Public Dinner a very old Indian Friend; namely, Lieut. Colonel Halkett, formerly of H. M. 75th. Regt. – and now settled here as a Family man! — He is Inspecting Field Officer of the Inverness Recruiting District. — He was very happy to see me – as I was him. —

After breaking up from Dinner I walked through the different Parts of the Town of Inverness, and along the Banks of the River Ness, which falls into the Sea close to the Town. — I supped at the Inn, and went early to Bed. —

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Source
MACQUARIE, Lachlan Journal No. 5[12 September 1801 - 14 July 1804]
Original held in Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref: A770 pp. 342-362 [CY Reel 300 Frames #227-238].
and
MACQUARIE, Lachlan Journal No. 6 [15 July 1804 - 16 March 1807]
Original held in Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref: A770 pp. 1-35 [CY Reel 300 Frames #242-259].

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