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June
June 10.
As we approach towards the "Cape of Good Hope" the weather becomes
sensibly colder every day for some time past; — the Sun is now in
the Northern Hemisphere, and this is consequently the winter Season in
the Latitudes we are now in — we find the cold encrease [sic]
every day as we get nearer the Land.
See a vast number of very curious Sea Fowles in these Latitudes –
especially the Bird call'd Albicross [sic] with immense long wings, of
which we see vast numbers. — We catched [sic] a number of very
large sharks in these Latitudes.
June 12.
We made Land in the afternoon of this Day at a great Distance at Sea the
weather being very clear – and the Land we saw very High – being a Part
of the Cape of Good Hope in Africa called – steered our course in for
the Land, and at night entered into False Bay on the North East side of
the Cape of Good Hope, at the mouth of which we droped [sic] Anchor.
— False Bay is formed by the Cape of Good Hope on the West and
Cape Lagullas on the East – it is a very deep large Capacious Bay.
June 13.
Friday. Weighed Anchor early this morning and Proceeded farther up the
Bay with a fine fair Breeze; about Nine OClock came to an Anchor in
Simon's Bay a small cove or Creek on the west side of False Bay – a very
Romantick [sic] and beautiful situation at the foot of a very High
Mountain: — the Dutch have a small Factory and a Number of Naval
Store Houses here for the conveniency [sic] of their Fleet and Shipping
at this season of the year, when it is dangerous for ships to go into
Table Bay on the other side of the Cape, where the chief Dutch
Settlement and Seat of Government is call'd Cape Town. — Simon's
Bay is a very snug secure Harbour for ships to ride at anchor in at this
season especially; — we found a number of Dutch East Indiamen
outward and homeward bound lying here; also some French Ships and one
English Man of War, vizt. His Majesty's Sloop
"The Bounty" commanded by Lieut. Bligh (who
sailed as Master with Capt. Cook) bound for
Ottaheitta in the South Sea in search of discoveries, but particularly
sent to carry and Transplant the Bread Fruit from Ottaheitta to the West
India Islands. — We saluted these ships and a small Fort on shore
upon coming to anchor which they returned — an officer was sent on
board by the Resident at Simon's Bay officially to enquire what we were
our business and reasons for putting in here. —
In the Evening Capt. Smith and Colonel Balfour
went on shore to wait upon the Resident Mr.
Brant.
June 14.
Saturday. As we found that Capt. Smith would
necessarily be detained for a few days at Simon's Bay to land some Goods
and lay in some Fresh Provisions and Water for the Troops and ships
company; a number of us resolved to pay a visit to Cape Town, and see a
little of the Country about the Cape. — Capt. Smith, Col. Balfour. Mr.
Dickie, Dr. Lewis, Lieut. Wood, Docr. Anderson and myself, having Breakfasted on board,
went on shore early in the morning, and having through the assistance of
Mr. Brant &c. procured
Horses we set out for Cape Town about Ten OClock. We had a most
delightful Romantick [sic] Ride round the Bay; the Road to the Head of
the Bay is close to the water, running along the Foot of very high
mountains all the way; – Passed close by (within about a Gun shot of the
Road) the Village of Constantia where there is a very fine vineyard
famous for the Produce of the wine called Constantia. — The Road
as far as Constantia is very rough and stoney, but from thence all the
way to Cape Town is very good and Level. When we arrived at the Head of
False Bay, we halted at a small Inn (situated on the Isthmus between the
two Bays) to take a Refreshment; — Here, for the first time I
drank Constantia – an excellent fine flavoured wine – having taken a
very good Refreshment we pursued our Journey – as ride along this neck
of Land or Isthmus (which is perfectly Level) have a very fine
Picturesque view of the distant Hills on either Hand — on some of
those on our Right far inland we see and clearly discern Snow; several
mountains being covered with it – notwithstanding we feel the Sun very
Hot and powerful – full as much so as it is at home in the middle of
Summer, but, here it is now their coldest Season; as we approach the
Town we have a full view of it and the Fortifications round it – the
Town with the Bay and surrounding Hills form a very agreeable and
beautiful Prospect. — Arrived at Cape Town about Four OClock in
the afternoon, and are conducted by our Guides to Lodging Houses, there
being no Inns in the place; – Capt. Smith
Mr. Dickie and Col. Balfour take up their
Quarters at a Mr. Van Carman's a very Rich
opulent Merchant; - Messrs. Wood, Lewis,
Anderson and Myself took up our Quarters at the House of our Guide a
Mr. Keiver – we found this man's House,
accommodations and Entertainment fall very far short indeed of the
mighty fine Promises and Elegant Description he was pleased to give us
of them on the Road from False Bay; all that he could now give us after
our Ride was some Coffee, but promised to let us have a very good Supper
– after our Coffee we went to walk through the Town and to call upon our
Fellow Travellers whom we found Seated at a very comfortable Dinner and
very much pleased with their Situation; — I accompanied Colonel
Balfour at night to wait on Colonel Gordon Commandant of the Garrison
and Commanding Officer of all the Dutch Troops at the Cape; we call'd at
his Quarters in the Citadel but were informed that he was gone a Hunting
to the Country a few miles off – left our Names and waited afterwards
upon the next Officer in command in the Garrison vizt. Colonel ....... [name omitted] Commanding the
Regiment de Wirtemberg now stationed here and hired by the Dutch from
the Duke of Wirtemberg; this Gentleman received us very civilly and told
us the proper time to call upon the Governor Mr. Van de Graff next day. — Upon returning home
to my Lodgings I found my Companions assembled ready for Supper which
was soon afterwards produced – our Host and Hostess honouring us with
their Company - our fare was not very extraordinary, however, being
hungry we eat heartily and drank some Cape Wine – commonly called "Cape
Madeira" – we went early to Bed; but all of us were so much infested
with Bugs that we slept very little;
[June 15]
— and upon comparing Notes in the morning were heartily sorry that
we took up our Quarters at Mr. Keiver's, but
did not think worth while to look out for new ones for any time we were
to stay. — After Breakfast we went out to walk and take a more
particular view of the Town and the Fortification &c — I called
first upon Col. Balfour and accompanied him and Capt. Smith to wait upon Governor Van de Graff – were
informed that he was gone to Church (being Sunday) and left our Names.
— The Governor's House is a very fine one, surrounded by very
excellent walks and Planting; – we went afterwards to walk in and see
the Company's Gardens which are very fine indeed and well worth seeing;
– Saw all the wild Beasts and Birds which are kept in a Part of the
Gardens; there are a great collection of Birds and wild Beasts – the
names of which are too numerous to mention; – these, in particular, that
struck me most and that I had never seen before in any other Country,
were the wild African Buffaloe; the Antelope; the Zebra, or Queen's Ass;
the Casawara (a very strange Bird); and an Ostrich of an immense size;
this Bird cannot fly, but runs very swift when hunted. — after
seeing the wild Beasts &c we walked through the Different Parts of the
Town and viewed the Harbour and Fortifications – we were not allowed to
go very near the works, strangers not being allowed that Privilege; but
we saw as much of them as we wished notwithstanding; – the
Fortifications towards the Sea are very strong and sufficient; those on
the Land side are not so much so, being only Lines with a chain of
Redoubts and Batteries; the Citadel which is at the entrance of the Town
towards False Bay is remarkably strong and well Fortified; – there is a
very good Parade and a Square of excellent Barracks near the Citadel,
which along with the Barracks in the Citadel contains about Two Thousand
Men; which at present, is the Strength of the Garrison and indeed all
the Troops the Dutch have at the Cape – these Troops consist of a small
Corps of Artillery, the Regt. of Gordon and the
Regt. de Wirtemberg. — The Town of Table
Bay, or as it is most commonly stiled [sic], Cape Town, is a very neat
regular built Town; the Streets are not Paved, but are straight and
cross each other at Right Angles; — The Houses are built of Brick
in general and some of Wood, they are neat light and airy; — The
Town itself is most beautifully and Romantically [sic] situated – at the
Bottom of a very fine Bay and at the foot of very high Hills which
overlook it and all the Plains below; the view and Prospect from these
Hills towards the Sea as well as towards the inland Country is very fine
and extensive, especially, from that Hill called the "Lion's Rump".
— After seeing every thing about the Town that was worth viewing
or looking at, we went home to our Lodgings; — we found on going
home to Col. Balfour's quarters an Invitation Card from Governor Van de
Graff, for the Colonel and myself to dine with him on the following
Wednesday; but as we had resolved to return on board ship the next day,
we declined staying for the Governors Dinner and sent our apology
accordingly. — dined at Mr. Keiver's with
Messrs. Wood and Anderson; and in the afternoon
went to pay a visit to our Friends at Mr. Van
Carman's – on the way thither met with Lt.
Erskine and Ensign Tait just arrived in Town from False Bay; they
accompanied us to Van Carman's where they got Quarters. — In the
Evening we all went out to walk in the Company's Gardens, where we saw
all the Fine and most Fashionable People of Cape Town enjoying their
Evenings walk after coming out of church, this being Sunday; the Dutch
Ladies were very finely and richly Dressed up; some of them I thought
very pretty women; – we went to one of the Beer Gardens to see the Dutch
Men smoak [sic] and Play at Bowls; – from thence we went to see the
African Negroes and Caffres Dance and Sing; here we were shown some of
the People called "Hottentots" the original Inhabitants of the Cape of
Good Hope and all this District of Africa; – they were once a very wild,
fierce, savage, Race of Men, but are now become very tame, quiet and
inoffensive: – they are a strong Good looking Race of Men. — Our
Evenings walk and amusement concluded with this last scene; we all
supped together at Van Carman's, and afterwards retired to our Different
Quarters. — I omitted to mention that Capt. Smith, Mr. Dickie and
Docr. Lewis left us this Day in order to go to
Mr. Van Carman's Country Seat to transact some
business with him. —
June 16.
Monday. Got up early this morning and having Dressed and Breakfasted I
paid off my Bill for Board and Loding [sic] to Mr. Keiver at the rate of One Spanish Dollar per Day;
I afterwards went to call upon Col. Balfour and accompanied to the
governors to get our Pass and take leave - we found him at home and had
a long conversation with him he received us kindly, and very civilly
regretted our not staying an other Day at Cape Town; — He appears
to be a very good worthy Man; we took our leave of him and prepared to
set out for False Bay. — About Midday our Horses being ready
Lt. Col. Balfour, Docr. Anderson and myself set
out on our Journey; — Messrs. Erskine,
Tait & Wood remained behind for an other Day to see more of the Place.
— Our Ride this day was not quite so pleasant as the last, the Day
being very hot, besides our being very badly mounted. — We sloped
[sic] for about an Hour, at what is called the Half-way-House, twixt
Cape Town and Simon's Bay, where there is a small Post with a Serjeants
Guard to defend the Pass – the Serjeant procured us some Salt Beef Bread
and Onions on which and some bad Cape wine, we made a hearty Dinner; we
got our Horses also Baited. [?]
I must observe here that the Distance between Cape Town and Simon's Bay
where the Dublin lay at Anchor is about Twenty English Miles;
— I must also remark, that, the Cape of Good Hope (which gives
name to all this Dutch Settlement as well as to the whole of this
Peninsular;) is usually stiled [sic] The Cape: the southernmost Point of
it (and which is the south extremity of all Africa) is a very high
rugged Promontory lying in 34°-30' South Latitude – a Ridge of Hills
was from this Promontory all the way to the Head of False Bay and Cape
Town, which stands immediately at the Head of Table Bay on the north
west side of the Cape, False Bay standing on the South East side of it;
— the Isthmus, or Nick of Land, which joins the Peninsular of the
Cape of Good Hope, to the Continent of Africa, and which runs from Table
Bay to False Bay, is perfectly level, and is about Three Miles across
from the Head of the one Bay to the other. The Cape of Good Hope is
about Half way between Europe and the East Indies, and is consequently
the General Rendezvous of Ships of every Nation who trade to India –
having made this long digression I must return to my travelling
companions now, who along with myself having finished our Refreshment
and satisfied our Host in the Pecuniary way, Pursued our Journey to
Simon's Bay where we arrived about Six OClock in the Evening – we Paid
our Horse Hire and went on board the Dublin immediately. —
Capt. Smith and his companions had got on board
before us – we found every Body well and every thing in the same order
we left them. — Were informed at Supper, that the Ladies and the
rest of our Fellow Passengers amused themselves in our absence with
walking on shore &c every morning – some of the Gentlemen had taken
Lodgings on shore.
June 17.
Continued on board Ship — Tait, Erskine and Wood arrive from Cape
Town. —
June 18.
Colonel Gordon, Commandant of the Dutch Troops at the Cape came on board
the Dublin to Pay all a visit; He, Lt.
Bligh, Mr. Van Carman, and Mr. Mason (a Famous Botanist sent out by His Majestys
to collect strange Plants &c in Africa) dined with us and staid on board
till very late at night – we had a very merry Day of it and a great deal
of dancing with the Ladies in the Evening to fine Moon light on the
quarter Deck. — Colonel Gordon is a very fine jovial Fellow, and a
most agreeable Companion as can be; He has resided long in this Country,
and has very much studied the manners and customs of most of the Savage
Nations of Africa – especially of all these lying within the Distance of
One Thousand Miles from the Cape; He has frequently travelled this
distance into the interior Parts of the country, and his Descriptions of
the Savage and Wild Inhabitants of the different Nations he has visited
are very entertaining – He sang a number of their Songs to us in their
own real manner and Language; — this Gentleman has so great a
facility at learning Languages, that, to my great astonishment he
entertained us with a Galic [sic] Song although not born in the
highlands or even Scotland, being born in Holland but of Scotch
Extraction; He is very communicative and extremely well informed – in
short, as agreeable and facetious a Companion as I ever met with: – in
figure – Colonel Gordon is a tall stout soldierlike Man; He spent the
greatest Part of two Days with us, and we were not a little sorry when
he went away from Simon's Bay.
June 19
Had a very pleasant walk on shore with the Ladies. — We are now
only waiting for a Fair wind to Pursue our voyage. — walk on shore
every Day and spend our Time while we stay here, very agreeably.
June 22.
I wrote a long letter of this date to my Uncle Lochbuy, and Put it on
board of a French Ship bound for Port Lorient in France.
June 23.
Monday. About Three OClock in the afternoon the Wind became fair and we
weighed Anchor and Set Sail on our Voyage. — Several Dutch East
Indiamen sailed out of the Bay at the same time. — We got a
tolerable good offing by Sun set.
June 24.
The wind not so favourable - are obliged to run up to very High South
Latitude to hunt for a better wind, where we meet with very bad weather.
— The weather for some days off the Cape continued very
Boisterous; obliged to have Dead Lights.
Source
Macquarie, Lachlan. Journal No. 1: 15 December 1787 - 24 March 1792.
Original held in the Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref: A768 pp.85-107. [Microfilm Reel CY299 Frames #48-59].
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