Wednesday 1st. July 1807.
After Breakfast Lt. Ushinkzie accompanied us to wait on Genl. Goorieff, the Comr. in-chief and acting Governor of Baku, to whom he introduced us. — The General only speaks Russian; but we had the good fortune to meet at his Levee with a very genteel well-bred young man – Major Troosson of the Russian Corps of Engineers – who spoke excellent English, and through whom we made our wishes and intentions known to General Goorieff. — The General at first hesitated a good deal in granting us his permission to proceed to Astracan till he should report our arrival here to his Comr. in Chief, Count Goodowich [Gudovich], the Govr.-Genl. of Teflis – and receive his order respecting us. — But upon my representing to him how very irksome and inconvenient such a delay would prove to us, and that I had even in my Possession a Letter of Introduction and recommendation to Count Goodowich, the Govr.-Genl. of Teflis, in case I had taken that Route, the General gave up the point, and promised to write immediately to the Commodore to request he would find means to dispatch us to Astracan as soon as possible; leaving it at the discretion of the Governor of Astracan to permit us to pass thence without the orders of his superiors; the Instructions of Government to all the Governors of the Provinces in Russia being very strict with regard to all Strangers and Travellers. —
I requested of Genl. Goorieff to give us a clear Bill of health, in hopes it might be the means of shortening the period of our Quarantine at Astracan; but this he declined doing, as not being usual, and adding that if even he gave us one it would not have the effect we wished. We then took our leave – and went to the Parade to see Guards of the Garrison mount.
Baku is situated on the declivity of a Hill overlooking the Harbour. — It is a poor miserable small Town, with a double wall round it, but no Fortifications. — It has only been in possession of the Russians since Octr. last, when they took it from the Persians. — The Harbour is a fine Capacious Bason, [sic] and has at present 12 or 13 Sail of Shipping in it. — The Inhabitants of Baku are all Persians, and there is only the Russian regiment in Garrison.
Thursday 2d. July 1807. —
It has blown very fresh at North west both yesterday, and this day, and the sea is so very high even in the Harbour that we have hitherto been prevented by it from going to wait on the Commodore afloat. — This wind is directly against our going to Astracan; so we are losing no time in waiting for Mr. Bozo's Vessel.
Friday 3d. July —
The Weather being this day more moderate, the Commodore very politely sent his own Barge on shore for us, requesting we would go on board and spend the day with him; apologizing for not previously waiting on us which indisposition only prevented his doing. —
At 11,O'Clock a. m. we set out in the Commodore's Barge, accompanied by Lieut. Ushinkzie, Mr. Bozo, and Major Troosson, whilst several other Gentlemen went off in another Boat to be of our Party; and in about half an hour got on board the large Bombship, on which the Broad Pendant of Commodore Vesseelago [Veselago] is at present hoisted. — He received us in the kindest and most friendly manner, and entertained us in a very elegant hospitable stile [sic] with true Russian sincerety [sic]. — As soon as the Commodore was made acquainted with our wishes he promised to accomplish them by every means in his power by dispatching Mr. Bozo's Vessel with us to Astracan the moment she was ready and wind was fair; he likewise offered of his own accord to give us a clean Bill of Health and write in our favor to the Naval Officer superintending the Quarantine at Astracan to get us released from thence as soon as possible. —
After spending a very pleasant day with Commodore Vesseelago, we took our leave of him at 7,O'Clock, and returned on shore; our friend Major Troosson having kindly attended us the whole day as our Interpreter. —
Saturday 4th. July 1807
The Wind having this forenoon come round to the Southward, and Mr. Bozo's Vessel being now almost ready to sail, we sent off our baggage at 5,O'Clock this Evening in charge of George in a Boat belonging to Mr. Bozo round to the Ship, which is lying at a place called Apsheron, about 30 miles to the N.West of Baku for the more conveniency of sailing when ready; and we proceed ourselves early tomorrow morning by Land to join her there. —
As a small remuneration for all Lieut. Ushinkzie's great kindness and attention to us all, I made him a Present this Evening of my Fusil and Bayonet, and all my Powder and shot together with my address in Scotland. Also I gave my address to Mr. Bozo and Major Troosson, in case either themselves or any of their Friends should ever have occasion to visit that Country.
In the forenoon we went to take leave of the General and announce to him our intended departure tomorrow morning. — He received us at this time in a much more friendly manner than he did when we first waited on him, and on my mentioning again the circumstance that Bill of Health, he ordered one to be directly made for his signature and gave it me. — We then took our leave of him.
Sunday 5th. July 1807
Having taken a very early Breakfast with our hospitable kind good friend Lieut. Ushinkzie, we took our leave of him; and at 6,O'Clock this morning set out from Baku on Horseback for Apsheron, accompanied by Mr. Bozo, and Lieuts. Nekludoff [Nekhl'udov] and Babaeff [Babayev] of the Commodore's Ship, who insisted upon going to see us save [sic] on board Ship, which Mr. Bozo goes now to dispatch for Astracan. —
On the way to Apsheron we stopt [sic] to see the White Naphta Pitts [sic] or Wells about 8 miles from Baku, where an immense Quantity of this very useful Rich Oil is collected – and which has a strong Turpentine Smell.
About a mile farther on, we stopt [sic] again at the Village of Autashka [Ateshgyakh] to look at and admire that extraordinary Phenomenon of "The Everlasting Fire", as commonly denominated.
There are Five Fire Pits within a Square Wall Enclosure or Caravansera, each having a strong bright flame issuing out of it, which, in all probability, is occasioned by the strong Vapour which is communicated to those wells from the Pits of Napht or Naphta in their vicinity. —
Besides the five Flames within the Square of the Caravansera, there are four or five others in small Cells built along the walls of the Square by Holy men or Faquieres [fakirs] who come to visit this extraordinary Place from the most distant parts of Hindostan. Over the entrance to each of these Cells there was a Hindoo Inscription written by the Founder. —We found one of these Faquieres now here, who had come all the way from Burtpore [Bharatpur] in Hindostan to see those wonderful Fire Pits. — He had been here Eight months, and intends to return again to his own Country as soon as he can collect money enough to repay his expences back. — We gave him a little for this purpose.
Close to the Outside of the South face of the Square already mentioned, there are two very large Flames of Fire issuing through A hard Rocky Soil, and which smell very strong of Napht. —
Having staid about an hour in admiring and looking at these wonderful Fiery irruptions, [sic] we resumed our Journey. — At 11. a.m. we halted at a Village close to the Sea, and about halfway between Baku and Apsheron, to rest and dine. — Here we staid till half past 2,O'Clock and then pursued our Journey.
At ½ past 6. P.M. arrived at Apsheron, where the Ship lay at anchor; and a Boat being immediately sent on shore from her as soon as we were observed on the Beach, we went on board in it at 7,O'Clock accompanied by our three Russian Friends. — Our Bark which is named "the Stanislaff" is a large two-masted Vessel with a lofty Roomy Cabbin. [sic] — Here Mr. Bozo received and welcomed us in the kindest manner, pointing out our respective Births [sic] or sleeping places, and allotting the largest and best of them for my use. — Mr. Bozo regretted much his not being able to attend us in Person on the Voyage to Astracan; but he called his Supracargo and gave him strict orders in our hearing to pay us the greatest attention, and to let us have every thing the ship afforded.
As soon as we had supped, our three Russian friends left to go to sleep on board of one of the other three Vessels now lying in these Roads, and all of which belong to Mr. Bozo, in order to leave the whole of the Cabbin [sic] of "The Stanislaff" to us.
Monday 6th. July 1807. —
Between 6 and 7,O'Clock this morning our friends came on board to Breakfast with us, and Mr. Bozo having written his Letters and given his Instructions to the Supracargo and Master of the Vessel, gave orders to the Pilot at half past 9,O'Clock to get her under-weigh. Mr. Bozo, and our two other Russian Friends then took leave of us, with the most cordial exchange of mutual good wishes, on their parting with us, and quitting the Ship.
At 10. a.m. we sailed from Apsheron Roads, with a fine fair wind at South – and with every prospect of making a speedy Passage to Astracan ! —
Tuesday. 7th. July 1807.
At 2. a.m. the wind changed to the N. West, and is now almost directly against us. —
It has blown very fresh all this day with a high sea running; so that we are making very little or no progress in our Voyage.
In the Evening we stood in for the Land to look for good anchorage: – the Sea being very high, and the Vessel Rolling dreadfully. — At 12,O'Clock at Night anchored near the shore.
Wednesday 8th. July 1807.
We had the mortification on getting up this morning to find ourselves still at anchor, and the wind blowing very hard directly against us from the Northward, with a great swell.
Wednesday 15th. July —
The Weather for these seven days past has been extremely boisterous, and the whole time the wind blowing directly against us, with a very high and heavy rolling Sea, which rendered our situation extremely uncomfortable whilst thus lying at Anchor. Our situation became every moment more unpleasant from the circumstances of over having laid in only a small Stock of Provisions for a week, not expecting to be at Sea beyond that time at farthest, the Passage from Baku to Astracan commonly not exceeding three days with a fair wind such as we set out with. — To add to our misfortunes our Stock of Water for drinking and Cooking proved Brackish – and having been put in Casks that formerly were filled with Oil, the taste of it became intolerable. We were on a wild, barren, uninhabited Coast, where no supplies could be had, and if ever they were to be had here, the weather was so very tempestuous, that we could not have ventured to hoist out a Boat to send on shore to procure them. —
Under these tantalizing vexatious circumstances, added to those in Petto for us in the detention we are likely to experience in serving Quarantine at Astracan; it was no small relief to our minds to find that the Wind had shifted round in our favour between 1 and 2,O'Clock this morning for the South East.
At 2. a.m. weighed anchor, and at 3,O'Clock made sail with a fine light fair Breeze, steering out proper regular course of North and by West.
At 5. P.M. saw very high mountains at considerable distance inland covered with Snow, which supposed to be the Caucusus, [sic] as they ran in the direction of N. West from the Caspian – and were very lofty – distant at least forty miles from us. At this time we were running along at about 15 miles distant from the Western shore of the Caspian. — At 9 P.M. we were abreast of the Town of Derbent on the western side of the Caspian, and running at the rate of 5 Knots an Hour. —
Saturday 18th. July 1807.
The Wind, although perfectly fair for us has been so very light for the two last days that we have made but little progress in our Voyage. — At 3. P.M. this day we came in sight of a Tower, built as a Beacon, on a small low Island close to the mouth of the great River Wolga, [Volga] situated a little to the West end of the Entrance to it. —The water became now very thick and muddy, and we have only 2 ½ Fathom or 15 Feet Water. —
At 11. P.M. we were abreast of the Tower on the little Island, and there being very little Water we came to anchor for the Night.
Sunday 19th. July 1807. —
At 4. a.m. weighed anchor and made sail for the River. —
At 6. a.m. Entered the River Wolga, and saw three or four Vessels lying at anchor near a Village about 12 miles up the River. — At 7. a.m. a Boat with a Naval officer in it, came off to us from the Guard Ship, and hailed us at some little distance without coming along side. — He spoke for about ten minutes to our Pilot or Master, and having received all the information he required, he returned again to the Guard Ship; leaving us still in the Dark with regard to our serving Quarantine or not.
At 8. a.m. we came to anchor on the Bar, within about four miles of the Village, and the [the] Vessels at Anchor already alluded to. — Here our Vessel touches the Ground, and must be warped over the Bar.
At 10. a.m. our Supracargo went in the Ship's Boat to report our arrival and show his Papers to the Commodore and Inspector of the Quarantine Lazaretto. — We sent our Bills of Health by the Supracargo to be examined by the Inspector of the Quarantine, and we also wrote a Letter to the Governor of Astracan, praying of him to shorten our term of Quarantine as much as possible; which Letter was also sent by the Supracargo.
He returned on board at 11 O'Clock at Night, but brought no satisfactory intelligence; only that our Papers had been forwarded to the Governor of Astracan, and that the Inspector and Surgeon would visit us tomorrow. —
Monday 20th. July 1807.
The Russian Naval officer Commanding the Guard Ship in the River, came in his Barge at 10 a.m. close to our Vessel, and spoke for some time with the Pilot, but we did not understand what he said. — He did not come on board of us, but paid us his compliments at a respectable distance. —
Tuesday 21st. July 1807
The Inspector paid us his promised Visit at length at 10,O'Clock this morning in his Boat. — He did not however come on board, but remained in his Boat along side talking to us in German for about a quarter of an hour. — He informed us that he had reported our arrival and sent our Papers to the Governor of Astracan, whose decision concerning us he expected to receive the day after tomorrow, in regard to our serving Quarantine at all or not – and whether here or at Astracan; and that if we did serve Quarantine, it would not exceed Twenty five days altogether, including the four days we are detained on board the Ship.
This intelligence, tho not of the most agreeable kind, relieved us from a very painful irksome suspence; [sic] as we dreaded that our term of Quarantine would even be longer than is likely to prove. —
At 5. P.M. our Vessel (Scout) hauled off the Bar into deep water, and afterwards Sailed up the River 3 miles farther, anchoring near the Town of Chitnoi Bukor [?].
Thursday 23d. July 1807. —
At 10,0'Clock this morning we left the Stanislaff Scout with our Baggage, in the Ship's Boat, accompanied by The Supracargo; and at half 11,O'Clock landed on a small Island about a mile in length, in the mouth of the Volga, close to the Town and Island of Sidlistoff, from which it is only divided by a very narrow Ferry. — On this small Island is erected the Quarantine House or Lazaretto, and which takes its name from the neighbouring Town or rather village of Sedlisloff ! — We were received at the landing Place by the Inspector, Mr. Prei, and the Doctor Monsr. Pirigon, who have charge of the Lazaretto here, and were immediately conducted to a small House allotted for our accommodation by those Gentlemen. — They then informed us that by the Quarantine Regulations established by the Government of Astracan, we must serve Twenty five days in this Quarantine, including however the four days we were detained on board ship after our arrival in the mouth of the River, and that after being discharged here, we should have another Short Quarantine at Astracan before we were allowed to prosecute our Journey farther, but added at the same time, that they hoped the Governor of Astracan would remit a part of our Quarantine on account of the clean Bills of Health we had brought with us from Baku. — This intelligence has not much relieved our anxiety, and I must confess has damped my own spirits in particular excessively – as I must now entirely relinquish all hopes of arriving in England so soon as I fondly hoped to do: namely – in all August !!!
The Inspector and the Doctor (who is a Frenchman) were both very civil to us; the former sent us a tolerable good dinner, and promised to supply all our wants in the eating and drinking way, while we should remain in this Quarantine. —
Monday 27th. July 1807.
No answer having been yet received from the Governor of Astracan to our Letter of the 19th. Instant, we wrote to him again this day per Express dispatched early this morning by the Inspector of the Quarantine, transmitting to him at the same time our Passports from India, with a particular account of our Journey thence, and of our motives for travelling by this Route.
Provenance
Lachlan Macquarie. Journal 18 March 1807 - 17 October 1807.
Original mss. held in the Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Reference: A771 pp. 121-154 [Microfilm: CY Reel 300 Frames #551-#584].
